The tiling begins

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The plasterer has left and Debbie (my wife) has put a first coat of paint on the wall – a watered down bathroom paint which is to stop any moisture penetration or moult

This coat will be followed by another two coats of white emulsion.

We are very pleased with the work of the plasterer, he has put some nice curves in this difficult room, which makes the room actually bigger then it is


Untitled by mcluma, on Flickr


I have in the meantime put 6mm cement boards down which will bring more stability to the already 18mm plywood subfloor.


Untitled by mcluma, on Flickr

The cement boards are put down with tile adhesive and screws.

This is the small pile of tiles that have to go on the floor and wall. We will not be tiling the skeeling. Jut the flat walls.


Untitled by mcluma, on Flickr

As you can see, I have treated myself to a new toy. A Dewalt 24000 tile saw. I should have bought this thing a long time a go, up to now I used a Plasplug wet tile cutter, but this is so smooth and is almost effortless.


Untitled by mcluma, on Flickr

I have also treated the shower wall to a coat of Mapei sealant. This is what we call tanking. It’s an 3mm thick coat of a rubber paint which seals’ the plasterboard completely from any water or moisture penetration,


Untitled by mcluma, on Flickr
 
Great start, i'm planning on revamping my bathroom aswell, so would be interesting to see how you get on, so do keep us updated wth progress etc.

just a quick question regarding the cement boards, how much have the increased the floor height by?
 
the cement boards are 6mm.

I put them on a bed of tile adhesive, so that is an extra 2mm, so in total taking everything into account about 8mm

Normally when installing marmox boards, you have to use the washers,

with these cement boards you do not need to use the washers as they are much stiffer, so the screw will not pull through the board.

I like the cement boards better then the marmox as they are stiffer and much longer, therefore taking a lott more flex out of your floor, and they are also much heavier
 
So did you screw down plywood first?

and then cement board screwed down on top of the plywood?
 
Hi,


You'd normally:

1. Screw the plywood subfloor down (sealed on the back and sides, but not the face), ensuring the edges are supported.

2. Apply a thin layer of tile adhesive to the plywood and lay the cement board onto this, mechanically fixing with screws/washers as needed

3. Lay any electrical underfloor heating if required

4. Pour flexible self levelling compound over this to cover cabling

5. If using a weak natural stone, bed a decoupling membrane onto tile adhesive on this

6. Lay your tiles on this lot! If you're not using underfloor heating, you can skip steps 3, 4 and 5.

Alex
 
Hi,


You'd normally:

1. Screw the plywood subfloor down (sealed on the back and sides, but not the face), ensuring the edges are supported.

2. Apply a thin layer of tile adhesive to the plywood and lay the cement board onto this, mechanically fixing with screws/washers as needed

3. Lay any electrical underfloor heating if required

4. Pour flexible self levelling compound over this to cover cabling

5. If using a weak natural stone, bed a decoupling membrane onto tile adhesive on this

6. Lay your tiles on this lot! If you're not using underfloor heating, you can skip steps 3, 4 and 5.

Alex

Spot on
 
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