Thermal downlight hoods

[marvelman]

Hi all, looking to solve my draughty downlight issue in my kitchen – unfortunately the cavity is inaccessible due to a tiled bathroom floor above so I’ve been looking into flexible fire hoods that can be fitted through the cutout from below.

Found the conical ones from Thermahood, but at almost £16 a hood, it’ll cost me nearly £100 just for 6 … so instead I’m looking at the following cheaper ones, but as they look quite thin, I’m skeptical about their thermal properties:

Fire Hood 150mm :

Fire Hood 150mm - A fire protection hood to provide protection for non-fire rated ceiling lights or downlighters. The hood is 150mm diameter and 150mm tall which is an ideal size for the majority of normal GU10 and MR16 spot fittings. The 150mm diameter measurement is to the inside of the hood...

www.saving-light-bulbs.co.uk

So my possible thinking was to potentially wrap them in some plastic wool insulation I’ve got lying around to bolster their performance – I should mention that I’ll be using them with fire-rated downlights.

I guess my question is, does that sound like a sane and safe idea?

 

[Adam_151]

unfortunately the cavity is inaccessible due to a tiled bathroom floor above so I’ve been looking into flexible fire hoods that can be fitted through the cutout from below.

Found the conical ones from Thermahood, but at almost £16 a hood, it’ll cost me nearly £100 just for 6 … so instead I’m looking at the following cheaper ones, but as they look quite thin, I’m skeptical about their thermal properties:

Sounds like you don't actually need fire hoods (and they are not really intended to do anything else other than swell up and prevent passage of fire)

So my possible thinking was to potentially wrap them in some plastic wool insulation I’ve got lying around to bolster their performance –

Thats not a good idea, the downlights do need to have clearances from insulation (see manufacturers instructions) or you'll cook the electronics and be replacing them often!

I should mention that I’ll be using them with fire-rated downlights.

Then you defintaly don't need fire hoods

I guess my question is, does that sound like a sane and safe idea?

No, Look for lights that state a reasonably high IP rating, you don't need it, but if they are then they are not going to let wind whisle through, tbh most integrated LED fittings will be fine, its the lamp in a can that some people prefer that often lets draughts through. If the problem is sleaing of the light roung the edges, then either repair the plasterboard, or go for a light thats a bit bigger and with aid of a bit of scrap wood, drill them to correct new size

 

[marvelman]

Thanks very much for the detailed reply Adam.

Yep, from having a quick look maybe I should’ve gone for integrated units – I can understand how they would offer a better seal.

The lights I did opt for (so it’s unfortunately too late now having shelled out) are actually ‘insulation coverable’ cans (JCC FireGuard Next Gen) but I do wonder what the lifespan would be given that, presumably, any insulation would make them retain more heat!

 

[Adam_151]

Those JCC fttings don't seem too bad, it would seem that they do an IP65 bezel option after a quick google.

The whole integrated fitting vs. lamp in a can is a debate thats going to go on for a long time. On one side, if you have an integrated fitting and it fails, then electrical work has to be done to replace it (and if you are a home owner having to pay someone, or your an electrician having to return to site under warranty then thats got costs) but in my experience they seem more robust than outside LED flood lights.

On the flip side with a lamp in a can, you can replace it often, but the thermal and optical design is often compromised, you have got to fit all the electronics and heat sinking into the lamp form factor, and as a result they do seem unreliable (which might not matter if its replaceable) plus you have similar contraints on the optics as well as the fact its going to be placed in a fitting which could restrict the edges of the beam, and you can often get poor lighting coverage, especially with the cheaper lamps.

My personal preference is decent brand integrated fittings, and make sure they have clearance around them with the insulation displacement boxes (which allow free air around the fittings, but allow the insulation to go over the top above)