Tiling didnt go to plan. what can i do to rectify

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Bowlzi

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Hi.
I have now started to tile the dormer .
I thought I had calculated window positions correctly to correspond with the plain tile edges but with the additional counter battens requested by Building control it now requires a slither of a tile :-(
Windows are ordered already so cant change the size of the opening and want to avoid a heap of work later if i can do anything now.
I paid a retired roofer to help and thought he would have set it out to stop it from being a problem. he didn't and now suggested i buy loads of tile and a halfs (which will not match old tiles...)
what is the thing(s) I should do to make it look right...

he also fitted lead with galvanized nails through the tiles even though i spent £16 on copper nails for it...
will load picture soon

Thanks
 
The window inserted is from a skip but gives some temporary protection. Actual frame is abou 15mm wider than the white window you can see.
 

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If you do not want to use tile and halfs you can cut tiles in half. If you need to you can cut 20-35mm of the tlie next to the cut.
Normally you would have a tile and half in alternate courses
 
Hi, i assume I'll need to cit the same on every row to keep the bond?
@noseall , Yes i appreciated i already have new corner tiles in that colour but they are less noticeable than the larger tile and half. And cost more too....
How far back should the lead go in under the window?
 
@palaceray. Its a slither short so do you mean cutting a few inches off other tiles to bring it back half a full tile width? Where is this best to do to notice less? Assume.a.bad idea to cut fown corner tiles?.
Thanks
 
it doesn't really matter how you try to make sure things fit .. The tiles and fittings be it T&H or vertical angles wont all be identical.
How had you planed on finishing the tiles where they butt the window?
 
Just even the gap between the tiles so you get rid of the need for a sliver.
 
datarebal said:
it doesn't really matter how you try to make sure things fit .. The tiles and fittings be it T&H or vertical angles wont all be identical.
How had you planed on finishing the tiles where they butt the window?
Click to expand...
I was thinking upvc strip or samd and cement.
 
catlad said:
Just even the gap between the tiles so you get rid of the need for a sliver.
Click to expand...
On the side i have 1.25 inch to make up over just 2 tiles and a corner though :-(
 

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if you want to avoid buying T&H you could use a section of cappit upvc fascia up the window edges. that will give you around 9mm plus you could allow what would be the bottom edge of the fascia to wrapround covering the tile edges.
it'll look finished. but tbh i would get the T&H redland 02 brown as your angles.
 
datarebal said:
if you want to avoid buying T&H you could use a section of cappit upvc fascia up the window edges. that will give you around 9mm plus you could allow what would be the bottom edge of the fascia to wrapround covering the tile edges.
it'll look finished. .
Click to expand...

That's what I usually do anyway. As suggested you could take a couple or three courses off and open the gauge slightly, how does it work out when you get round the other side of the window though.
I agree with Datarebal and your roofer, guy, get some tile and a halfs
 
noseall said:
No, but they will match the LH&RH corner tiles.(y)

Don't forget the lead under the window.
Click to expand...
I've been trying to find information on lead and flashing for around the window. Mostly American sites come up and they use stick on flashing and have different construction techniques that don't seem appropriate to my situation with Upvc window in tile hung stud work.

Can you direct me to uk information or terms I should be searching for.

It's either so obvious that there isn't information or it's not done...

Thanks
 
firstly tile up to the bottom of your window and take some lead and fold it from the sill of the opening down over so it forms a double lap cover over the tile hanging. fit your window with the sill overhanging by the required amount. what I normally do is take some capping fascia and cut it down so that the moulded lip sits over the tiles and what would normally be the face of the fascia buts back into the window. stick it on with silicone and silicone the join. For the head cut a thin strip of either fascia or soffit and again silicone it up under where the tiles hang down, or alternatively run your soffit straight back into the top of the window.
I have to go back and tidy a bit of painting on Monday, on a job I did a couple of weeks ago and can take a picture if you like.
 
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