Tiling sockets close together

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How would you tile a kitchen with sockets like that, that are so close together? Thanks
 

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Wouldn't be able to cut a bit to go in-between as it's so small. Would you usually just silicone the gap between?
 
Not between the white face-plates, perhaps a bit behind in the gap but it's just a shadow gap really, I would definitely look at getting them all aligned though, their misalignment would drive me nuts. Or in an ideal world they'd be spaced apart with a proper small tiled gap between.

There are also longer socket available with say two fused spurs, might be worth investigating .....
 
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Isolate the power. Drop the faces away and photograph or draw the connections of each unit.
Tile up to the edge of the backing boxes, making sure you don't overlap the edges. i.e., make straight cuts where necessary.
Once clear of the boxes, you can then refit the faces, aligning them horizontally, and try to push them close to each other to take up any gap between the faces.
Don't tile up to the face edges because it looks an ar$e. The faces need to cover any exposed tiles edges.
If the faceplate screws are too short after tiling, you can buy longer ones cheaply enough, though they may need to be cut down slightly.
 
Thanks so no to confirm you wouldn't try and cut a tile for between these two sockets?
 

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I wouldn't, you wouldn't see anything and it'd be so thin a cut to avoid the screws that it'd be a pain to fit and cut

With nothing to support the area in the middle, where the screws are, you would have to be really careful not to overtighten the screws, and crack the accessory. I would see If I could find something just to fill the gap, level to the tiles, to prevent that. Maybe a bit of timber even, held in place by the grout, would serve.
 
Thanks so no to confirm you wouldn't try and cut a tile for between these two sockets?
Once the face plates are off you will be able to see what the gap is between the boxes. If you think you can cut a thin strp of tile to cover the gap, without overlapping the boxes, then have a go at it. Personally, I think the gap will be too small to accurately cut a thin sliver of tile that will not crack or break under the slightest pressure.
Regarding what Harry says about pressure on the central area of the screws, you can reduce this risk by slipping a 4mm nut over the fixing screw after pushing it through the faceplate hole. This will acy=t as a packer by reducing the gap between the faceplate and fixing hole. Make sure you nip the screws up enough so they don't allow the faceplate to move, but not too much they crack.
Patience is the key.
 
Get those isolators hidden under the worktops where they belong - not on display in your smart new kitchen.
 
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