timber warped in partition

[skhudy]

1970s house we have knocked around approx 20 years ago and repartitioned inside.

Slowly refurbing.

the rough sawn 4x2 timbers used for partitioning weren't very good and have warped so the walls aren't straight. e.g one wall i've stripped back there is a bow of 10mm in the middle from the outer 2 timbers. Yes there are noggins between the 4x2.

If I run battons along the 4x2 to staighten the walls for plasterboarding, whats the likely hood the wood will continue warping? the only other option I see is rebuilding the partitions with some decent timbers as I go along but obviously a lot more work

 

[foxhole]

1970s house we have knocked around approx 20 years ago and repartitioned inside.

Slowly refurbing.

the rough sawn 4x2 timbers used for partitioning weren't very good and have warped so the walls aren't straight. e.g one wall i've stripped back there is a bow of 10mm in the middle from the outer 2 timbers. Yes there are noggins between the 4x2.

If I run battons along the 4x2 to staighten the walls for plasterboarding, whats the likely hood the wood will continue warping? the only other option I see is rebuilding the partitions with some decent timbers as I go along but obviously a lot more work

Timber warps as it dries, if it’s dry it should not move much again.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

If it is really bad the timber can be cut through 3/4 of the way on the "crowned" side, a shallow wedge knocked in and then a flitch plate fixed to it (persomally I'd recommend screwing a piece of stud as the flitch plate.with 5 x 70 to 5 x 80 screws). Obviously you need a string line, two blocks and and traveller (the loose bit is called a traveller) to check for straightness, but it isn't rocket science (fortunately for me!). When I got home I did a quick search and found this Scott Brown (a Kiwi Carpenter) video which explains it in more detail:

BTW noggins don't prevent warping - they are there to stiffen the wall and make it less "bouncy", more stiff/rigid