To fill or not?

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Repainting garage fascias, and I've had to remove a previous repair on the top edge which is about 10mm x 200mm. Is this gap ok for two part filler, built up in a couple of layers? Or should I glue in a new piece of timber cut to the shape of the hole?

Thanks
 
You need to ensure that you remove all of the rotten soft timber. An oscillating saw is ideal.

I use epoxy resins to splice in the new timber. The polyester resins filler that you are considering is not flexible, it would be fine indoors, but not outdoors.

The downside to epoxy resins is that they are more expensive and in most cases you need a special skeleton gun.

My goto brand currently is Oxera https://www.oxerarepair.co.uk/oxera-online-shop but you will need a tube of 1 hour and the gun- the total being £25 + £32.

Repaircare do however sell an epoxy resin that works with a regular caulking gun.


If you do use an epoxy resin, make sure that you mix it thoroughly, unlike the other filler, if not mixed correctly, it will not cure.
 
For anyone who comes across this, worth pointing out that you can buy oxera 4hr in tubs so you don't need a gun.
 
Please do let us know how you get on with the tubs. I have long wondered how one mixes it accurately without mixing the whole tub in one go.
 
Finally got around to using this - the weather had slowed things down.

Although the product is expensive, the service from the supplier was excellent. Next day delivery is included in the price. I ordered around 09:00 one day and had it by 11:00 the next.

Instructions say to use mix 3:1 by weight or volume. I thought about weighing (didn't think the wife would be too impressed with me using the kitchen scales), and looked for suitable measures (two required to avoid contamination), but in the end thought the accuracy can't be that important, and did it by eye.

The key with mixing is the colour change, and each time I've mixed some I thought initially I've not added enough hardener, but persist and the colour does change.

This was the 4 hour version, and was able to build up some think, unsupported areas with no slump at all. It is stickier than I expected, and trying to get a smooth finish where there is nothing to guide the application is tricky, so sanding in those areas is required.

First time I used it, hardening time was longer than I expected. But I had forgotten it was the 4 hour version, and the temperature was low. It really needed to be left a couple of days before sanding. Compare to the use last night, where temperatures were in the high 20s, and I was working in full sun, it went off much quicker. Of course, I may have added slightly more hardener this time around.

So I would not be put off by the tubs. My only other comment would be to make sure you have the appropriate PPE - the chemicals are not the nicest to get on your skin, eyes or to ingest.
 
For what it is worth, you can use perspex, or timber wrapped in polythene as an edge to work against. The filler will not stick to it. Sorry, it will stick to it, but you can peel off the perspex/polythene. When straightening the underside of masonry window sills, I clamp a length of timber covered in poly to the underside as a guide.

sill-before.jpg

sill-after.jpg

The same technique works will 2 part fillers and powder based fillers.

Thanks for the update, I have the requisite gun, and as such will stick with the tubes. I agree that their delivery service and prices are excellent. As you said £25 inc vat and delivery. Wayyyy cheaper than Chemfix or RepairCare. And neither of the latter sell the tub versions.
 
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