Been renovating the bathroom, and onto the toilet! I had this covered whilst doing everything else so hadn't given it much thought till now. I had wrongly assumed that there was an adaptor onto the main out pipe, however none of it seems to shift at all. From the wall to the lip all seems to be cast iron (old house) with a plastic adaptor on that (I think) but doesn't seem to want to budge? Some thoughts/advise please?
During work, Dont leave the soil pipe open - use something to firmly block it to prevent rats entering the house.
typically, the CI hub is cut off back level with the wall (use a 9" grinder) - a C/C WC is the set back against the wall/tile - and the WC spigot tied-in to the cut soil pipe with a WC Pan connector.
fwiw, that mess of pipework needs to drop under the floor, and only stub up at fixtures.
typically, the CI hub is cut off back level with the wall (use a 9" grinder) - a C/C WC is the set back against the wall/tile - and the WC spigot tied-in to the cut soil pipe with a WC Pan connector.
fwiw, that mess of pipework needs to drop under the floor, and only stub up at fixtures.
U
undertrained
Hi Matt,
That looks a bit like lead to me, and if the soil pipe is cast iron, then chances are it could be. It could also be asbestos cement. Any photos of soil pipe externally?
That looks a bit like lead to me, and if the soil pipe is cast iron, then chances are it could be. It could also be asbestos cement. Any photos of soil pipe externally?
Bobasd: As I said the soilpipe was covered the whole time, taken off tonight to start. You should of seen all the other pipework 
That is in a box there and won't be seen so not fussed.
So cut back, and use something like https://www.toolstation.com/viva-slinky-fit-flexible-pan-connector/p88457 ?
Undertrained: Yes it's cast iron pipe outside.
That is in a box there and won't be seen so not fussed.So cut back, and use something like https://www.toolstation.com/viva-slinky-fit-flexible-pan-connector/p88457 ?
Undertrained: Yes it's cast iron pipe outside.
maybe you dont need anything but a connector (screwfix 78806) - but wait until you've cut the pipe, and offered the wc pan and cistern against the wall/tile.
if here's still a gap then use a straight extension piece (eg screwfix 98788) and cut it to length. try and avoid using flexi connectors.
if you find differences in height then come back here.
if here's still a gap then use a straight extension piece (eg screwfix 98788) and cut it to length. try and avoid using flexi connectors.
if you find differences in height then come back here.
U
undertrained
From what you’ve said about the cast iron soil pipe, and the fact it’s grey coloured inside suggests to me it’s lead. You have a couple of options: cut the lead back and use: a long pan connector or extension piece and pan connector. Other option is to cut back as far as you need and use a standard connector.
OP, well done for determination - cutting CI with a small grinder. it looks a neat cut.
bolt the cistern to the pan before pushing the whole WC back to the wall.
you will have to mock up a tiled wall and a tiled floor to get your true dimensions and centres.
always try to run tile under fixtures.
if the pan spigot is anywhere near 12" from the cut soil pipe, and that much higher (40mm?) then you will need certain fittings to pick up the differences. - go to a local Plumbing Suppliers with the above photos, and your dimensions, and they will fix you up.
bolt the cistern to the pan before pushing the whole WC back to the wall.
you will have to mock up a tiled wall and a tiled floor to get your true dimensions and centres.
always try to run tile under fixtures.
if the pan spigot is anywhere near 12" from the cut soil pipe, and that much higher (40mm?) then you will need certain fittings to pick up the differences. - go to a local Plumbing Suppliers with the above photos, and your dimensions, and they will fix you up.
If you are fitting a vanity toilet unit with a back to the wall pan then you'll have plenty of space to fit to that. Lots of pan connectors from 40mm offsets to flexi's that will make up that gap no bother. Just make sure you have an adapter with the correct diameter to fit into the cast. As suggested earlier, it may be a 3 1/2" opening.