Treatex hardwax oil issue

pilsbury

pilsbury

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Nothing goes to plan does it.... well not for me anyway!

Sanded my pine floor back to bare wood and applied some Treatex colour tone. Left for the longer end of the recommended 3-6 hours and then applied a coat of the Treatex hardwax oil. Placed a fan heater in the room to give some extra warmth and air movement expecting to do my second coat in 3-6 hours.

24 hours later and the damn stuff is still tacky. I applied with a paint pad and didn't think I laid it on overly thickly, however it may have had a little more than ideal.

The room is plenty warm, I'd guess 22C as it is warmer than the rest of the house. My only thoughts are that the floor is a bit cold due to it being a suspended wooden floor and being bitterly cold outside.

I've read up on some other hardwax oil issue posts ranging from leave it to sand it back...

Any thoughts? Is time the only healer or is remedial action required?
 
OK, It's started to dry now.... 3-6 hours my foot! More like 36 hours with a 2400w fan heater on damn near permanently!

So next issue to solve - The finish feels slightly rough, possibly due to small bits of dust that remained in the gaps. Any ideas how to remove? Fine grit sandpaper lightly over the top? What grade?
 
Normally, hardwax oil is wiped down to even the surface, and take off the excess, but the Treatex website doesn't seem to suggest that. Did you thin the first coat down though.

As Treatex doesn't seem to work the same as other hardwax oils, I'd be tempted to contact them on Monday, but if you want to go ahead, then try sanding a small area with 240 grade, and applying another coat to see the response, but I have seen the Osmo site suggest not going finer than120 grade, possibly to allow a rougher surface for the oil the be able to penetrate.

Sorry I can't give any better help.
 
I did not thin the first coat down as treatex only suggest thinning on hardwood, not pine.

I too share your concerns on sanding too fine and blocking the wood pores and hindering the penetration of the product.
 
I can see your reasoning on not thinning, but it would have speeded up the drying process by virtue of being thinner, and the evaporation of the thinner; but having said that, go for the 120 grade, and see what the results are.
 
Got some sanding pads - the ones that look like green scotch pads and lightly went over the floor. Just knocked off the gritty bits rather than trying to get a super smooth finish and removing the surface. Hoovered and wiped up with a damp cloth.

The second coat is now on and I'm hoping it dries a bit quicker than the first. I made sure I applied as thinly as possible this time.
 
when it's dry I shall post some pics - looks good at the moment, but I'm not counting on the 3-6 hours drying after the last episode...... quadruple that at least!
 
IMG_4909.JPG
12 hours and dry! Recon I put the first coat on a bit thick along with the sub zero temp outside. The light sand worked a treat too. Pleased as punch with it.
 
Hi Pilsbury! I know this thread is very old but I'm hoping you might still see this! I love your floor - I don't suppose you can remember which finish of the Treatex oil you used, satin? gloss? etc. Thanks so much in advance if you see this, Sal
 
I got an alert to say you’d responded. Was a satin finish. This went over the colour tone wood stain by treatex.

I must say it’s held up pretty well. It’s not an often used room so limited traffic. But still looks good.

However, on rereading the thread it reignited the pain! My only advise is to wait till the weather is not bloody cold. As you have obviously read, took an age to dry when cold. If I were to do something similar again, it would be a summer job!!
 
Apologies for bringing back bad memories! We've kind of committed now, but can close the room off for drying and at least know what to expect in terms of timings! Thanks so much for taking the time to reply, enjoy the weekend, Sal!
 
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