Uneven gap between floor and skirting boards

Joined
16 Nov 2022
Messages
13
Reaction score
0
Country
United Kingdom
We recently had some LVT flooring laid in our new extension and today have had skirting boards fitted. Noticed that there are some inconsistent gaps between the floor and the skirting, I think where the floor isn't exactly level. A few pictures below if that helps illustrate (not sure how much you can tell from them). I just wondered, what would you do in this situation? Just leave as is (pretty much most of it will be behind furniture and so not noticeable) or look to fix it somehow?

PXL_20230223_162902235.jpg


PXL_20230223_162915301.jpg


PXL_20230223_163117703.jpg
 
You could use a bead of sealant. If the the skirting board is painted white, you could fill the gaps with white sealant flush with the board so that everything will look a single piece.
 
Decorators caulk would be my choice. Sealants don't take paint very well, but caulk is designed to be painted over.
If they have used sealant, (as opposed to caulk), in the corners and that jointed section, I would scrape it out and use a flexible filler that you could sand down and blend in before painting. Caulk all the gaps below the skirting and, once painted, the gaps won't be noticeable.
 
Don't pay and ask for a proper job.

Should not need caulk anywhere. , one should be scribed around the other.

They should be scribethat the bottom to match undulations in the floor, ditto cornerd.

Was is a handyman called Kettle that fitted these?

Screenshot_20230223_190306_Chrome.jpg
 
Sadly, I have to agree, but you shouldn't need to scribe the skirting to the floor - because the floor should have been flat in the first case. But that corner those corners looks awful, and what on earth was he doing with that joint in the skirting?

BTW if that had been Keitai we'd be up to page 7 by now...

...and Andy would have chimed in by now, too :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
 
you shouldn't need to scribe the skirting to the floor - because the floor should have been flat in the first case
That is true, although what floors are truly flat? I recently had parquet laid over a 1920s suspended wooden floor. Entire ground floor.

They sanded the floorboards and overlaid with ply first. Over the longer lengths (7 meter rooms), scribing / sanding was necessary when fitting the skirts over the parquet to keep an even 1mm gap.

The guys were pretty anal about it and it took them far longer than expected (although fixed price).

Well chuffed with the result
 
That is true, although what floors are truly flat?
The answer is none, but you can at least use plywood and SLC to get somewhere near before you start, the idea being to reduce any gaps to a more acceptable amounts as well as create a floor where the joints won't separate, creak or squeak. In the OP's case thst would probably have worked - the skirtings, however, are a different matter.

I recently had parquet laid over a 1920s suspended wooden floor. Entire ground floor.
Parquet? Well that's a different kettle of fish - for starters the glue used is often pretty thick and when you finish installing it the entire floor should get levelled with a girt great floor sander.

So if the necessary work is done on the sub-floor the need to scribe should be minimal
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Sadly, I have to agree, but you shouldn't need to scribe the skirting to the floor - because the floor should have been flat in the first case. But that corner those corners looks awful, and what on earth was he doing with that joint in the skirting?

BTW if that had been Keitai we'd be up to page 7 by now...

...and Andy would have chimed in by now, too :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
Commie contractors on cannabis: never a straight line between 'em.;)
 
Hope whoever fitted that skirting didn't call themselves a carpenter- what a waste of timber. As others, that joint is rubbish (you can join lengths of skirting, it'll never be invisible unpainted cos of the change in grain but that's all you should see), the internal corners should have been scribed, the wandering gap could have been corrected by scribing.
Does lvt move about like laminate?- if yes you might be better off sanding and staining/sealing the timber, caulk would be fine to fill any gaps behind the boards but might not do so well down to a mobile floor surface.
 
Commie contractors on cannabis: never a straight line between 'em.;)
Doesn't explain the "mind the gap" skirtings. The joints look like he has shares in "Caulks'r'Us"

Does lvt move about like laminate?- if yes you might be better off sanding and staining/sealing the timber, caulk would be fine to fill any gaps behind the boards but might not do so well down to a mobile floor surface.
Providing the LVT is onto a solid, relatively flat surface it shouldn't move. People are talking about scribing, but does anyone seriously think that a guy who can't handle a scribed corner or a straight joint in skirting could do a 6 to 10 foot long scribe?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
You need to fit a quadrant. I think you've gathered it's crap but that and a bit of prep for the skirts before painting will improve matters.
 
Decorators caulk would be my choice. Sealants don't take paint very well, but caulk is designed to be painted over.
I am in the middle of replacing cracked caulk with polymer sealant. Works better than any "pro" job. The pro clown job only lasted 2-3 months. Mine will do better.
 
You need to fit a quadrant. I think you've gathered it's crap but that and a bit of prep for the skirts before painting will improve matters.
Try and resist the quadrant trim (aka Scotia)- it tends to look cheap and shoddy when done properly, if it's done to the same standard as that skirting you'd be better leaving the gap
 
Back
Top