Glued on the 180, 240, 320 and 600 grits. Didn't have 120 so I guess that's needed too or could start on 180
120 grit would be the starting point if your chisels are completely fubarred. 180 grit will be OK as a starting point, but if your edges ar bad or badly chipped it will take a lot longer to sharpen to an edge. Low grit number = large grit size = coarse surface = faster removal of metal.
Grey granite worktop saver from dunelm- £15. The 600 grit had a few creases but mostly ironed out. I guess if needs replacing metal scraper to take off adhesive.
Yes, bit of white spirits (or better still lighter fluid or Evostik solvent) to soften the glue bond then peel off. Use a scraper if required. BTW, it is a "when" not an "if" it will wear out
Didn't have 120 so planer blade in too but read it was supposed to be honed at 38 degrees or 30 for chisels so didn't hone it until I've checked I'm doing it right.
The general use sharpening angle for plane (NOT
planer , that is a power tool!) iron is 25° (
extension 50mm), secondary bevel or honing angle is 30° (
extension 38mm). Plane irons are clamped in the upper pair of jaws and the extension is measured from the body on the end of the jig with the squared top.
The general use sharpening angle for chisels is 25° (
extension 40mm), secondary bevel or honing angle is 30° (
extension 30mm). Chisels are clamped in the lower pair of jaws facing the opposite direction to plane irons and the extension is measured from the body on the end of the jig with the rounded top.
I think you have confused extension with angle.
The main task is to grind the edges by working up through the grits. The honing bit, or secondary bevel production, should only produce a tiny 1 to 2mm secondary bevel the first time it is produced. Start this one with the 320 grit, then the 600 grit
but only after working up through all the grits at the grinding angle. The iron or chisel can often be honed 3 or 4 times, sometimes more (probably only 5 or 6 passes on the abrasive each time), to "touch up" the edge between major sharpenings if you use this primary grinding angle/secondary honing angle approach
Out of interest, what's the difference between this wet/dry paper to normal decorating sand paper of a similar grit?
Wet and dry paper (otherwise known as silicon carbide paper) uses the abrasive silicone on carbide. This is a hard abrasive which is not particularly durable. That makes it faster cutting and more durable than the abrasives used for paint and wood. The downside is that it clogs relatively easily, hence the need for quantities of lubricant (in this case light oil, like 3-in -1)
The abrasives used for decorating are most often either aluminium oxide or garnet. These abrasives are relatively variable, i.e the abrasive particles shatter quite readily. That in turn means that sharp edges are constantly being generated on the paper, meaning that on softer materials such wood or plaster can be sanded fairly quickly. The downside of all this is that the abrasive wears out very quickly when used on materials such as steel.
Edit: I wrote up the use of the jaws the wrong wayvround. Corrected. Sorry for any confusion. JnK
