Unlevel door lining

[Deleted member 174758]

OK, @Keitai, so I've just taken that new, never been used, not even been honed Irwin-Record #060-1/2 and tried to use it on the end grain of a hard maple cutting board. It worked, not as well as a properly adjusted plane, but no juddering. When I closed the mouth it choked. When I put too much set on the iron and I didn't tighten the lever cap sufficiently I got juddering.

Your plane shouldn't have any rust on it, so yes, oil it and flat the sole and sides on some 240 grit wet and dry until the rust is gone. Always keep the bare metal surfaces lightly oiled, and in a damp van keep your plane inside a plastic bag, lightly oiled with a small pad of cotton cloth which has been slightly dampened with 3-in-1 or sewing machine oil. That way before putting a plane away you can wipe it over (blade, sole, sides) with the cloth. If you ever use it outside dry it off before storage - WD40 can help drive water off. Most importantly make sure your plane iron is sharp and that the blade is only just sticking out of the sole. After use back off the iron to retract the edge inside the body (protects the edge). It isn't a power planer, so you aren't going to take 1mm off in a single pass, more like 0.1 or 0.2mm (see photo below)

Note that I don't suggest using wax. This is because I think you have other issues which need to be tackled first

 

[Keitai]

OK, @Keitai, so I've just taken that new, never been used, not even been honed Irwin-Record #060-1/2 and tried to use it on the end grain of a hard maple cutting board. It worked, not as well as a properly adjusted plane, but no juddering. When I closed the mouth it choked. When I put too much set on the iron and I didn't tighten the lever cap sufficiently I got juddering.

Your plane shouldn't have any rust on it, so yes, oil it and flat the sole and sides on some 240 grit wet and dry until.the rust is gone. Always keep the bare metal surfaces lightly oiled, and in a damp can keep your plane inside a plastic bag, lightly oiled with a small pad of cotton cloth slightly dampened with 3-in-1 or sewing machine oil. That way before putting a plane away you can wipe it over (blade, sole, sides) with the cloth. If you ever use it outside dry it off before storage - WD40 can help drive water off. Most importantly make sure your plane iron is sharp and that the blade is only just sticking out of the sole and tha after use you back off the blade to retract it inside the body (protects the edge). It isn't a power planer, so you aren't going to take 1mm off in a single pass, more like 0.1 or 0.2mm.

Note that I don't suggest using wax. This is because I think you have other issues which need to be tackled first

So open the mouth fully (red ring in picture)? I dont know the purpose of the adjustable mouth.

Is lever cap the yellow ring in picture? Should this be very tight? How tight should screw be as well?

 

[Deleted member 174758]

...It worked, not as well as a properly adjusted plane, but no juddering. When I closed the mouth it choked. When I put too much set on the iron and (when) I didn't tighten the lever cap sufficiently I got juddering.

To get you started open the mouth quite a bit, like in the photo below. Note where the front of the skate (the sliding insert in the sole of the plane at the front) is relative to the front of the plane. Once you have adjusted the mouth make sure that you tighten the red ringed knob so that the mouth can't close-up accidentally:

... It isn't a power planer, so you aren't going to take 1mm off in a single pass, more like 0.1 or 0.2mm.

The yellow ringed knob is there to tighten the lever cap and clamp the iron so that it can't move

The lever cap needs to be tightened in order to hold the iron firmly against the frog in order to prevent the iron from flexing. This photo shows the top of the frog which must be rust free and clean of any contaminants

Above: View from above the plane. The frog is the small bare piece of metal visible just to the rear of the mouth opening. The back of the iron sits on the frog

When adjusting the iron (aka blade, cutter) the lever cap is loosened slightly (1/4 to 1/2 turn) so that the adjuster can be used without straining the threads. After adjusting the iron the lever cap is always re-tightened

Above: The adjuster is the brass knob visible at the rear of the plane

Remember - hand planes only remove a fraction of a millimetre on each pass. Also there is no way to measure blade projection which is worth a damn. Block planes cannot take as thick a shaving off the wood as, say, a jack plane

Note that in block planes the iron is inserted bevel upmost. This is the opposite of bench planes (smoothing, jack, fore or jointer) where the bevel of the iron is generally downwards (so, you have got the iron in the right way round, bevel up, haven't you?)

The iron is set to a minimal amount and a pass taken. It may take several adjustments to get a decent shaving. When adjusting a hand plane the best approach is to start with too little blade projection and gradually increase the projection. This is the best way to deal with slop in the adjuster. Your first couple of tries might not even produce a shaving, but keep going 1/4 to 1/2 a turn at a time. Don't be tempted to wind the iron out t
(advance, it) then back it off. Block planes don't take heavy passes. This is what you should be looking for:

Note how thin the shavings are. With a properly tuned plane I expect to do a lot better and make thinner shavings

When you have finished, at the end of every session of using any plane it is good practice to wind the iron back inside the body, clean the plane of shavings and dust and give it a once over with an oily cloth before bagging it up

 

[Keitai]

To get you started open the mouth quite a bit, like in the photo below. Note where the front of the skate (the sliding insert in the sole of the plane at the front) is relative to the front of the plane. Once you have adjusted the mouth make sure that you tighten the red ringed knob so that the mouth can't close-up accidentally:

View attachment 223225


The yellow ringed knob is there to tighten the lever cap and clamp the iron so that it can't move

View attachment 223227

The lever cap needs to be tightened in order to hold the iron firmly against the frog in order to prevent the iron from flexing. This photo shows the top of the frog which must be rust free and clean of any contaminants

View attachment 223229
Above: View from above the plane. The frog is the small bare piece of metal visible just to the rear of the mouth opening. The back of the iron sits on the frog

When adjusting the iron (aka blade, cutter) the lever cap is loosened slightly (1/4 to 1/2 turn) so that the adjuster can be used without straining the threads. After adjusting the iron the lever cap is always re-tightened

View attachment 223230
Above: The adjuster is the brass knob visible at the rear of the plane

Remember - hand planes only remove a fraction of a millimetre on each pass. Also there is no way to measure blade projection which is worth a damn. Block planes cannot take as thick a shaving off the wood as, say, a jack plane

Note that in block planes the iron is inserted bevel upmost. This is the opposite of bench planes (smoothing, jack, fore or jointer) where the bevel of the iron is generally downwards (so, you have got the iron in the right way round, bevel up, haven't you?)

The iron is set to a minimal amount and a pass taken. It may take several adjustments to get a decent shaving. When adjusting a hand plane the best approach is to start with too little blade projection and gradually increase the projection. This is the best way to deal with slop in the adjuster. Your first couple of tries might not even produce a shaving, but keep going 1/4 to 1/2 a turn at a time. Don't be tempted to wo d the iron out then back it off. Block planes don't take heavy passes. This is what you should be looking for:

View attachment 223231

Note how thin the shavings are. With a properly tuned plane I expect to do a lot better and make thinner shavings

When you have finished, at the end of every session of using any plane it is good practice to wind the iron back inside the body, clean the plane of shavings and give it a once over with an oily cloth before bagging it up

I opened the mouth to its maximum. I'll guess I'll leave it to that setting permanently. Strange how mine sticks out the front more than yours when fully opened ( protrudes past the front). Then followed your instructions. Felt as always have with hand planes that the blade gets pushed back in after a few passes. I guess just really tighten the screw which holds the iron in place.

The knob which I circled in red (which adjusts how far blade sticks out) has come off. Broken ? If you try to draw blade back in , it just comes off. Maybe overtightened and tried to withdraw blade and broke it, dunno.

I

I guess sand sole with wet and dry all over then oil as well to keep in good nick

 

[Keitai]

You do realise, don't you, that I am cutting and pasting this into a Word document - and that next year when the book comes out you'll have to pay £19.95 for the privilege
.....

Seriously with your knowledge and writing ability you should.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

I opened the mouth to its maximum. I'll guess I'll leave it to that setting permanently. Strange how mine sticks out the front more than yours when fully opened ( protrudes past the front).

I do try to be accurate with my language when describing technical points, and having reread my original post I can find no reference to opening the mouth "to it's maximum". In fact what I said was to "open the mouth quite a bit, like in the photo below. Note where the front of the skate (the sliding insert in the sole of the plane at the front) is relative to the front of the plane." which isn't quite the same thing. I even took a photograph of the underside of the plane to show you what it should look like. If you examine that photograph carefully you should be able to discern that the skate does not extend past the front of the plane. In other words the mouth is opened quite a lot but is not fully opened. All the photographs were taken in order and the mouth setting was not changed from first photo to last

I also think your plane is a mess. Why not remove the sticker on the right cheek by using a bit if lighter fluid then wipe the dust off (clean old tooth brush can be handy for that) and give the exposed surfaces a wipe with an oily cloth? That sticker will make it difficult to use the plane in instances where you need to slide the plane on its' side (and there are such circumstances). Tools cost money, after all

Felt as always have with hand planes that the blade gets pushed back in after a few passes. I guess just really tighten the screw which holds the iron in place.

Well, almost all hand planes have an amount of slop in the blade (iron) adjusters. This is why when you adjust an iron you start by retracting it into the body then advance the iron until it starts cutting. If you over advance the iron back it off more than you need then readvance it to take up the slop.

Slop is where you turn the adjuster but the cutter doesn't move immediately (maybe it will after 1/2 to 2 turns) - this is the result of machining tolerances on the screw threads being a bit open (or "sloppy")

When advancing or retracting the iron always take the loosen off the lever cap to avoid damaging the threads or the adjuster knob for that matter (I suspect you may have done this already ) . Retighten after every iron adjustment and don't ever use a plane when the lever cap isn't properly secured (tightened) first

At least your appear to be producing shavings now. Is your juddering cured?

 

[lynchnigel]

I also think your plane is a mess. Why not remove the sticker on the right cheek by using a bit if lighter fluid then wipe the dust off (clean old tooth brush can be handy for that) and give the exposed surfaces a wipe with an oily cloth? That sticker will make it difficult to use the plane in instances where you need to slide the plane on its' side (and there are such circumstances). Tools cost money, after all

Indeed I second that, what HAVE you been doing with that plane?! Or rather what HAVEN'T you been doing with that plane?! It's worth keeping your tools rust free and in good working order and be proud to work with them, when people see them they take a view of your work if they are look shi%te

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Just a little aside: you could always try reattaching that knob with a bit of Araldite epoxy resin

 

[Keitai]

Just a little aside: you could always try reattaching that knob with a bit of Araldite epoxy resin

I'll try that. It comes off when u unwind too stiffly or I'll order replacement.

Had another play after reading your notes. How tight do u tighten screw? Finger tight? I've closed mouth too so it's same as end of sole.

U said block planes are used at 10 degree angle to put a chamfre on bottom of doors. What else are they used for? My smoothing plane would be used to take mm off sides of doors surely not block plane.

Feel I'm making progress . Think untightening the lever cap quarter turn before protruding blade then tightening up again was the mistake I did before. Didn't do that. I really tighten lever cap now as well

 

[lynchnigel]

Still plenty of rust to come off there :

 

[Keitai]

Still plenty of rust to come off there :

Just sanded the soles and sides with 180 wet and dry. Couldn't find 240 earlier. Clothed on oil afterwards. Maybe compressed air on smoothing plane is needed to get all the sawdust out from cracks etc then spray oil


I'm gonna use just these two planes on my next door and not use electric one. See how it goes

 

[lynchnigel]

Just sanded the soles and sides with 180 wet and dry. Couldn't find 240 earlier. Clothed on oil afterwards. Maybe compressed air on smoothing plane is needed to get all the sawdust out from cracks etc then spray oil

Pulling the blade back and then running the sole and sides flat across the wet and dry keep it flat?
Use fine buy some and keep it for that purpose.
You can squirt oil on the wet and dry while it's on a flat surface to the rub the planes on.
Have a look how clean jobandknocks planes are, that's what you are aspiring to

 

[Keitai]

Pulling the blade back and then running the sole and sides flat across the wet and dry keep it flat?
Use fine buy some and keep it for that purpose.
You can squirt oil on the wet and dry while it's on a flat surface to the rub the planes on.
Have a look how clean jobandknocks planes are, that's what you are aspiring to

Nah not flat. I was rubbing the sandpaper with my hands. I'll use the fine one on my marble

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Maybe compressed air on smoothing plane is needed to get all the sawdust out from cracks etc then spray oil

Or maybe just an old (cleaned) toothbrush? Frogs can be removed and replaced (2 screws) although I'd advise against this with DIY quality planes lacking a frog adjuster screw (yours is OK, it has one, just don't alter the setting)

As @lynchnigel says, sand on a flat surface. There may be a day when you need to use that surface as a register surface (e.g. if using a make shift shooting board or the like) where having flat, square plane sides is essential

 

[Keitai]

Read through this thread again and I'm ok with my block plane (great advice on that) but got a question about my smoothing plane.

Is it the case unlike the block plane that when moving the blade out from the sole there's NO need to slackened the nut (circled in picture) then when protruded enough NO need to then tighten nut (circled in pix)? I know this is what you do with block plane.