UPVC multi point lock latch wont spring out fully

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I have KFV single piece multi point lock with 2 hooks, 2 rollers and split spindle.

The latch on this mechanism no longer springs out fully and so door wont latch shut. Is it possible to repair just the latch on this mechanism or I'm I going to have to replace the entire piece?

The hooks also don't seem to retract fully when you try to open and seems to have some kind of gunk or grease almost thick as vaseline around it.

Trying to find an exact replacement has been a mission. All the ones I've looked at have different distances between the hooks and follower or hooks and rollers.

Plus why is cost for this particular part double the price for a split spindle as opposed to a solid spindle?
 

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You could try a ' sprung ' set of handles , this sometimes helps a latch that is suffering from age related weakness. The other option is to replace either the gearbox ( i can't remember if KFV's have replacement gearboxes only or not ) or the entire mechanism. There appears to be no rhyme or reason as to why some door lock mechanisms are cheaper than others , some are relative cheap , others horribly expensive. It may be worth looking at a Lockmaster ' universal ' door lock , that comes with a new locking plate for the door frame , that may work out cheaper and easier in the long run
 
You could try a ' sprung ' set of handles , this sometimes helps a latch that is suffering from age related weakness. The other option is to replace either the gearbox ( i can't remember if KFV's have replacement gearboxes only or not ) or the entire mechanism. There appears to be no rhyme or reason as to why some door lock mechanisms are cheaper than others , some are relative cheap , others horribly expensive. It may be worth looking at a Lockmaster ' universal ' door lock , that comes with a new locking plate for the door frame , that may work out cheaper and easier in the long run

Hi,

The gear box is riveted to the faceplate so unable to replace just the gear box. What are sprung handles?
 
A lot of newer handles come with a ' spring set ' that sits over the spindle and behind the faceplate of the handle, thus making the handle self return to its initial position. Sometimes the spring in the handle is enough to make up for the weakness in the spring that returns the centre latch
 
When you recommend the Lockmaster ' universal ' door lock, do you mean the Yale doormaster door lock or is the lockmaster something else.
Had a look at lockmaster but they don't have any adjustable hooks, only the yale doormaster appears to have adjustable hooks. It seems to have a 10 year gurantee which many of the other brands don't seem to offer.

Do you know if I could reuse the existing keeps with the Yale adjustable doormaster lock?
 
Sorry , yes its the Yale Doormaster, my mistake. We normally fit the roller cam version, that comes with its own locking plate , normally a case of fit the door lock and Mark where locking plate sits. Its not very often we can't find a replacement gearbox for what we need.
In theory if they don't line up you could make new ' hook ' holes in the frame , only issue being the old holes
 
Sorry , yes its the Yale Doormaster, my mistake. We normally fit the roller cam version, that comes with its own locking plate , normally a case of fit the door lock and Mark where locking plate sits. Its not very often we can't find a replacement gearbox for what we need.
In theory if they don't line up you could make new ' hook ' holes in the frame , only issue being the old holes

Hi,

I got the yale doormaster adjustable lock but the lockingplates/keeps are a mystery to me. The instructions and the online video state the front edge of the keeps should be fitted flush to the edge of the door frame but then the door wont shut tight even if you adjust the latch plate - the existing locking plates are not at the edge of the door frame but are in the centre so I'm wondering is it necessary to fit the new keeps flush to the edge of the door frame or can they be fitted in the centre same as the existing keeps?

Also their patented uni-packer system is another mystery - I tighten the adjuster screws but they don't hold the plates in place and if someone was to remove the grub screw then there isn't enough packing behind the plate to give it adequate support?

In the attached pic where do I position the edge of the locking plate - position A, B or C?
 

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I've managed to fit the doormaster lock. However I've noticed sometimes when I lift the handle up to engage the mechanism the key doesn't always turn to lock. I have to lift the handle up with a bit of force before the key will turn. Any ideas why that is happening?

It more apparent when you try to lock from outside because it has a pad handle for the night latch operation and you can't always get a good grip to lever up when you want to lock the door.

What I have noticed are the handles are a bit loose. Is there anyway to fix this?
 
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