Using drill as screwdriver

DiyNutJob said:
I don't need something with too much power. The hammering action could break my tool attachment. After careful selection, I chose this for the best estimated cost & function combination: Parkside 2 -speed Corded Power Drill
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Impact drivers do not use a forward hammer action.

They use a rotational "hammer" action. There is a "hammer and avil" in the body that whacks the drill bits from the side to force it to turn with more torque.

Sorry not the best of explanations. The following explains it better than I can

Impact Drivers: How they Work and How to Use them

www.protradecraft.com www.protradecraft.com

I have had a Metabo 12v impact driver for over 2 years and used it recently for the first time to remove screws used to fix posts to a brick wall. It removed screws that the 12v drill struggled with.

I have no idea if an impact driver would harm your attachment. I don't see why the rapidly stuttering torque would, but, like I said, I don't know.
 
opps said:
like I said, I don't know.
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You are correct, you don't know. Hammering always causes damage. This is why when you want to damage the wall with a hole, you hammer. Even non-hammering tools hammer, just that the hammering action is weaker.
 
DiyNutJob said:
You are correct, you don't know. Hammering always causes damage. This is why when you want to damage the wall with a hole, you hammer. Even non-hammering tools hammer, just that the hammering action is weaker.
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I really don't understand your reply.
 
DiyNutJob said:
Not too convinced. I will let you know if I have a flash bang. But you are going to wait in vain.
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The only time I have waited in vain for my prediction of a tool burning out/dead shorting was when the guy decided to listen to my advice and threw it away instead of taking the chance. You may use it quite a few tin=mes before it gives up/dies. But it will happen, and usually when you are least expecting it.
 
conny said:
The only time I have waited in vain for my prediction of a tool burning out/dead shorting was when the guy decided to listen to my advice and threw it away instead of taking the chance. You may use it quite a few tin=mes before it gives up/dies. But it will happen, and usually when you are least expecting it.
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Once the smell and smoke has been released, there is no way to put it back in.
 
DiyNutJob said:
You are correct, you don't know. Hammering always causes damage. This is why when you want to damage the wall with a hole, you hammer. Even non-hammering tools hammer, just that the hammering action is weaker.
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Jesus effin' wept.

You need help.

I have had the misfortune of trying to reply to your previous posts. This time, I tried to explain how impact drivers work- I had only googled it recently and though it might help you.

But nah, you ALAWAYS know best.

I have never blocked a fellow member but, based on your previous replies I am tempted to do so.

Pat yourself on the back. You are "special".

What went wrong in your life? I am one of the many tradesmen that spends our spare time trying to help people. You however stumble in and accuse us of being conmen.

Over a week, I like other contributors spend 10+ (?) hours replying to questions.

We have years of experience behind us- you come along and look like a utter T.
 
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Why not just buy a rivet gun that doesn't need a drill hacked onto it? They exist and are supremely easy to use
 
conny said:
The only time I have waited in vain for my prediction of a tool burning out/dead shorting was when the guy decided to listen to my advice and threw it away instead of taking the chance. You may use it quite a few tin=mes before it gives up/dies. But it will happen, and usually when you are least expecting it.
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I have 500 rivets to go through. That's 500 times of drill use for holes, not counting the extras that I have to do to drill out the failed rivets. Is that enough times for you? I can already tell you it will do fine.
 
My rivet gun will still be going long after your crappy replacement drill has given up the ghost again. I feel like we're witnessing a breakdown.
 
DiyNutJob said:
Like the man above said, measuring the armature is highly complex. You can't just be making random assertions about increased consumption. The increase could be quite minor. With the money I saved from very careful buying, I can afford to splash out on some wastage in any case.
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In my current day job I am dealing with a 500Amp, 400Volt motor. I do know what is going on under the hood, Also had to deal with an 800 Volt, 2000Amp motor that was down to 40K ohms on the flash resistance checker, too many idiots using aggressive solvents to try and clear off the bush dust, dissolved all the extra carbon into the insulation.
 
Mike13 said:
In my current day job I am dealing with a 500Amp, 400Volt motor. I do know what is going on under the hood, Also had to deal with an 800 Volt, 2000Amp motor that was down to 40K ohms on the flash resistance checker, too many idiots using aggressive solvents to try and clear off the bush dust, dissolved all the extra carbon into the insulation.
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Had similar experiences with 11kV HT motors. One particular one that came in for cleaning/repair should have taken no more than 3 weeks on standard service. It took over 3 months with 4 men per shift, at 12hour double shifts, 7 days a week, and VERY careful removal of all the coils in an attempt to prevent a rewind. All because 3 apprentices decided they knew a 'quicker' way to clean the carbon off using a mixture of carbon tetrachloride and a thing we called mangus. This mangus was a chemical in a 1500L tank, kept out in the yard because of the fumes it gave off when the lid was open. It would melt any aluminium it came into contact with. When asked why they had used this, instead of the method they were told to use, they replied, "because it always cleans the crap out of the smaller stators". They would normally have been sacked but because 2 of them were showing potential of being good winders they were allowed to stay. They were given some sh*tty jobs to do for quite a while though and the third guy quit after about 2 months.
 
First rivet of the day and it's easy piecey. The new driver smells of burning even without load. It also gets warm a bit quick. No doubt the resident motor winders (windups?) will be telling me it will blow. Maybe it will, I got it at good price.

rivet.png
 
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