Veneered door splintering on me

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Keitai

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Had some grief with this type of door, when I was chiselling out the mortise latch the side kicked out near the spindle. Never has this on the cheap panel doors. Also found the wood splintered on the edges (on top of door)from my planing. Smaller chisel for latch recess?

The edges splintered too down the sides.

Best to plane with wood at top as in picture? I forgot my large clamp and just using block plane on top splintered sides!!


Positives- with my sharper chisels all my recesses are much better around edges e.g hinge and latch recesses
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A track saw is the goto tool for shooting in doors these days.

Veneered doors are a bit of a nightmare - especially where the core is chipboard.

You will struggle trying to shoot in with a block plane.


One way to avoid break out is to run around both faces and edges with a Stanley knife first - splinters that form will stop at the knife cut.

You could run your knife cut 1mm beyond your shooting in - and then chamfer the door edge after.
 
Keitai said:
Never has this on the cheap panel doors
Click to expand...
Dare say it's because the edges are softwood with some kind of fibrous engineered wood (MDF) over; that's not going to splinter. Veneer is much easier to splinter, and you need to avoid pushing it in a direction where it has no support: don't run a plane off an edge, run it onto it so you're pushing the veneer into the door wood rather than into free air
 
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Notch7 said:
A track saw is the goto tool for shooting in doors these days.

Veneered doors are a bit of a nightmare - especially where the core is chipboard.

You will struggle trying to shoot in with a block plane.


One way to avoid break out is to run around both faces and edges with a Stanley knife first - splinters that form will stop at the knife cut.

You could run your knife cut 1mm beyond your shooting in - and then chamfer the door edge after.
Click to expand...
Track saw rather than planed? Surely if the lining has a belly or all over the place running a tracksaw wouldn't work?

Regarding the lock which the side split out from my chiselled being hammered in would a smaller chisel or smaller drill have worked better?

Thxs for advice BTW
 
Keitai said:
Regarding the lock which the side split out from my chiselled being hammered in would a smaller chisel or smaller drill have worked better?

Thxs for advice BTW
Click to expand...

£120 for the Souber DBB door lock morticer

Seriously, it makes life so much easier, do 5 locks and it may have paid for itself.


Also consider buying a chisel sharpener...
 
opps said:
£120 for the Souber DBB door lock morticer

Seriously, it makes life so much easier, do 5 locks and it may have paid for itself.


Also consider buying a chisel sharpener...
Click to expand...
Will that prevent the sides splitting out?
 
Keitai said:
Will that prevent the sides splitting out?
Click to expand...

It will.

It accepts differing sizes of cutter. Those cutters bore in to the door edge at right angles. So long as you set the upper and lower limits, you can't go wrong. The tool auto centres on the door.

Once you have ground out the space for the lock body, you fit a cutter that is the same size as the face plate. The only time you need to use a chisel is to square the corners for the face plate. You don't need to use a chisel in the lock mortice. It really is a dream to use. The video shows you only time that you need to a chisel.

I wish I had purchased one years ago. It saves so much time.

The only downside is that you need to use a drill with 2000-3000 rpm. A cheap corded drill will often suffice. From memory it is supplied with 3 (common sized) cutters, I did purchase a 4th cutter.
 
When you drill into a door, especially a Veneered door, put a g clamp around the area you are drilling, this stops the door splitting.
 
Keitai said:
Track saw rather than planed? Surely if the lining has a belly or all over the place running a tracksaw wouldn't work?
Click to expand...
You are right - at least for show veneer faced doors, where only the heavy cuts (if required) are done with the saw. However, if your casing is a over the place it can be more productive to remove the architraves, straighten/sort out the jambs (especially on the hinge side), refix the archis THEN hang the door because it is risky planing-in veneered doors. That is what a PRO would do.

Keitai said:
Regarding the lock which the side split out from my chiselled being hammered in would a smaller chisel or smaller drill have worked better?,
Click to expand...
Knifing (scoring) the lines, then a SHARP chisel, starting with the cross grain cuts would have been the way to go. But I'm sure I've told you this before
 
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