Vent Axia Extractor Fan not working - "twitching"

[ringzer]

Hi,

I can't think of another word, but my Vent Axia VASF100T stopped working about a week ago. When I take off the fan cover to show the fan blades with the isolation switch on, the blades are what can best be described as twitching. They are rotating maybe 2mm ever second or so, but never properly working. And there is a very faint noise as it tries to turn. So there's clearly power to the motor and is trying to turn, but suggests the motor is buggered.

With the isolation switch turned off I have been moving the blades freely so there isn't an obstruction.

The fan itself is only about 4 years old although is in our main bathroom so runs the most of those in our house. The other fans in our house also run a reasonable amount and are running fine.

Is there anything I can do, short of getting an electrician and probably replacing the fan?

Thanks,

Ciaran

 

[terryplumb]

The motor is duff. Fit a new fan

 

[winston1]

Might be a stating capacitor.

 

[Taylortwocities]

Might be a stating capacitor.

Perhaps you mean a starting capacitor?

But I rather suspect that the OP’s skill might not extend to fault finding and repair to that level.

@ringzer Does the fan run if you push the blades? If so, it probably isn’t the capacitor.
Easiest would’ve to replace the fan. It’s a DIY job. Don’t buy a budget fan though, some of the cheap ones only last a few years!

 

[SUNRAY]

Perhaps you mean a starting capacitor?

But I rather suspect that the OP’s skill might not extend to fault finding and repair to that level.

@ringzer Does the fan run if you push the blades? If so, it probably isn’t the capacitor.
Easiest would’ve to replace the fan. It’s a DIY job. Don’t buy a budget fan though, some of the cheap ones only last a few years!

And the noise starts getting louder almost as soon at fitted... get a decent replacement

 

[333rocky333]

A quick google found this, though as TTC says above, may be out your depth and likely uneconomical for the average person.

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repai...repair-ventaxia-vasft100-pulses-or-runs-slow/

 

[ringzer]

Perhaps you mean a starting capacitor?

But I rather suspect that the OP’s skill might not extend to fault finding and repair to that level.

I'm work in computers and have done soldering in the past to replace batteries on electric toothbrushes, but I draw the line well before it gets to 230V! A new VentAxia fan will be about £50 and I have an electrician due to come in 2 weeks to do some other work, so will get him to sort.

@ringzer Does the fan run if you push the blades? If so, it probably isn’t the capacitor.

Nope

A quick google found this, though as TTC says above, may be out your depth and likely uneconomical for the average person.

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repai...repair-ventaxia-vasft100-pulses-or-runs-slow/

Thanks for sharing - interesting and I will definitely take apart the old fan to see what went wrong and if a very easy fix will keep around should another one kick the bucket. But it's just not worth the time and possible risk of getting it wrong. Guy on the video even says at the end that it may not be worth it.

 

[winston1]

I'm work in computers and have done soldering in the past to replace batteries on electric toothbrushes, but I draw the line well before it gets to 230V! A new VentAxia fan will be about £50 and I have an electrician due to come in 2 weeks to do some other work, so will get him to sort.

I wouldn’t hesitate. 3.3v is nowhere near 240v and it’s a five minute job.

 

[ringzer]

Having looked into it a bit more, and the cost of the capacitor, it does seem doable.

Am I missing anything from my checklist?

1. Isolate circuit (should be on lights)
2. Confirm no supply using this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B009K2E5MI
3. Remove fan from ceiling entirely, marking any cables if not clearly coloured and take photograph
   
4. Replace capacitor as mentioned on https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repai...repair-ventaxia-vasft100-pulses-or-runs-slow/
5. Replace fan
6. Turn on circuit

 

[ringzer]

Actually on https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repai...repair-ventaxia-vasft100-pulses-or-runs-slow/

it says to replace the 220uf 16V capacitor but the image looks distinctly like 220 uf 10V

Obviously I should be able to see it when I take it off, but what is the difference?

 

[BS3036]

Either is fine - the voltage of the replacement just shouldn't be lower. Physical size tends to increase with voltage.

 

[ringzer]

Yep, someone else replied on the other thread and said the same: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/bathroom-timer-fan-repair-ventaxia-vasft100-pulses-or-runs-slow

 

[winston1]

1. Confirm no supply using this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/productic

No, those magic wands are unreliable. Bin it and get a proper 2 pole tester or a multimeter.

 

[ringzer]

No, those magic wands are unreliable. Bin it and get a proper 2 pole tester or a multimeter.

I researched volt indicators before I bought it a few months ago and it's worked fine.

I've looked online just now to see about their accuracy and can't find anything.

Can you share some details on why they are unreliable?

Thanks

 

[Taylortwocities]

I researched volt indicators before I bought it a few months ago and it's worked fine.

The basic problem with those is that only indicate the presence of a live voltage.
As you probably know, for something to work if needs a live and a neutral. A magic wand won’t show you if the neutral is, or isn’t there. And half of circuit faults are due to the absence of the neutral. So you’ll need a proper tester.