Vinyl flooring for sheds

B

Brick/breeze shed

Joined
24 May 2021
Messages
15
Reaction score
0
Country
United Kingdom
I have just bought a wooden shed with a 3mm plywood base. I would like to cover the floor with roll Vinyl flooring. The choice and selection and the price variation is so confusing. I will be putting up metal shelving for storage and will have couple of tables to work on. I would also need to store my lawn mover in there. Any advice regarding thickness of a roll vinyl for the floor would be appreciated.

Also, does it make sense to paint knotting fluid on the inside of the panels, before applying wood preservative. The walls are tantalised.

My old shed had paper lining. The cost for paper lining my new shed was too high, so I opted out. What are the benefits of paper lining the walls?

The windows in the shed do not open. Does it make sense to have vents installed?

Thank you for your help.
 
3mm base and a lawnmower seems like a later problem of cracked/droopy flooring later on?
Thickness of the vinyl needs to be enough not to tear when you slide things, so avoid the foamed/comfortable soft vinyls.
knotting only needs to be on the knots if you are painting it later, as it is a way of stopping a bleed through of the resin from the wood, it would stop preservative from soaking into the wood, also as it is meths based doing a whole wall would not be good for you as the fume exposure will be high.
 
Hello Mike,
Thank you for your prompt response.
The 3mm plywood base is fixed to the base of the shed to give it extra support.
The nonfoamed soft vinyls seems to be very thin and tear off easily. All the thick 2mm - 5mm vinyls have extra foam and is spongy. There are vinyls with felt base but they are expensive at £20 per sq m.
Ok, so I won't apply any knotting fluid, but will fill up any holes with wood filler.
I am thinking of installing two vents and vapour/breather membrane to prevent damp in the shed.
 
Vinyl will prevent the floor drying out, so you need a well ventilated void underneath, with no water falling or collecting on the base. If you can afford it, decking boards make a sturdy floor. The gutters, downpipe and drain are important to keeping rain off.

Any vinyl will puncture or tear from spades, forks and lawnmowers.

I use timber preservative on a shed, not just fence stain. The fence stains leave a waxy film that throws off rain (decking stain is even better) but it weathers away and needs recoating after a few years. It is very easy as it does not need rubbing down once the sheen has weathered away. Apply preservative to bare timber.

No need for knotting

A lining reduces draughts and spider entry. You can use roofing felt or breathable membrane if the walls are made of featheredge which is not totally rainproof. A ply lining stiffens it up and you can screw hanging rails or hooks through to the frame.

Plastic shelving does not rust or rot.
 
Last edited:
JohnD said:
Vinyl will prevent the floor drying out, so you need a well ventilated void underneath, with no water falling or collecting on the base. If you can afford it, decking boards make a sturdy floor. The gutters, downpipe and drain are important to keeping rain off.

Any vinyl will puncture or tear from spades, forks and lawnmowers.

I use timber preservative on a shed, not just fence stain.

No need for knotting

A lining reduces draughts and spider entry. You can use roofing felt or breathable membrane if the walls are made of featheredge which is not totally rainproof. A ply lining stiffens it up and you can screw hanging rails or hooks through to the frame.
Click to expand...
Thank you, John.
I will ensure that the shed is dried for 2 - 3 weeks before laying vinyl. I did have vinyl in my old shed for 30 years and apart from dropping a can of paint on it, it survived fine. I will take care to ensure that I don't accicdently puncture it. Will probably end up storing spades etc in another smaller shed.
The shed is tantalised, so I will wait a year before I use a timber preservative outside with a colour to match the fence panels.
The walls of the shed are tongue and groove. My old shed was paper lined, which lasted a long time. I was quoted a lot of money to have the shed lined, so I thought I would get someone else to do it cheaper, along with a couple of air vents.
 
My shed has a concrete floor, I put rubber tiles down. It is used for general storage, also as a gym in lockdown. My fishing seat box has big chunky metal feet (Octbox) and the floor is fine after 3 or 4 years. You may want to stick it down.
www.ebay.co.uk

EVA INTERLOCKING FLOOR MATS SOFT FOAM GYM FLOORING MAT YOGA TILES 10 MM 60x60CM | eBay

They are easy to clean and soft to sit on or do exercises. NOT FOR THE VEHICLES TO BE PARKED ON. They protect Floors and prevent people from slipping. Easy to assemble and dismantle for easy transportation via car.
www.ebay.co.uk
 
To prevent splits/cracks in vinyl flooring you just need a flat solid base and reasonable sized wheels on any equipment you move about. I've had some foamed stuff down for the past three years and recently had to have a clear out of everything as we are moving house. No tears, splits are anything as my heavy equipment have 4 good swivel wheels on each one. No dragging, scraping or pushing something with tiny castors on it.
 
Ihavenojob said:
My shed has a concrete floor, I put rubber tiles down. It is used for general storage, also as a gym in lockdown. My fishing seat box has big chunky metal feet (Octbox) and the floor is fine after 3 or 4 years. You may want to stick it down.
www.ebay.co.uk

EVA INTERLOCKING FLOOR MATS SOFT FOAM GYM FLOORING MAT YOGA TILES 10 MM 60x60CM | eBay

They are easy to clean and soft to sit on or do exercises. NOT FOR THE VEHICLES TO BE PARKED ON. They protect Floors and prevent people from slipping. Easy to assemble and dismantle for easy transportation via car.
www.ebay.co.uk
Click to expand...
Thank you. I have wooden shed with wooden floor strengthened by 3mm plywood. Rubber tiles might be difficult to roll or drag stuff over. I am going to have 2.5mm vinyl roll flooring installed.
 
Odds said:
Ronseal wood preserver is all you need.
It does what it sez on the tin.
Click to expand...
I assume therefore that one of the things it says on the tin is that once you get the brush above shoulder height it will run in uncontrollable streams off the brush and along your arms, and when you're doing the inside of the roof it will also drip into your face.

I can't recommend Remmers Wood Cream too highly, followed by one of their top coats.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top