Wall is out 20mm. How to level?

[0Floz0]

Hi all

Read around some threads but no one’s wall seems to be out as much as mine and they’re all tiling onto plaster.

Method I’ve got:
Stripped walls back to bare studs
I’m putting nomoreply 10mm backer boards on the walls and then tiling onto these.

As you look at one wall, the top of it is 20mm further back than the bottom. Like it’s leaning away from you at the top. Given backer boards need to be glued all along the stud I’m a bit nervous about how I level it out. If I had a table saw I’d just cut some tapered strips out. But unfortunately it’s the one tool I don’t have. I’ve got a track saw but it’s going to be pretty tricky doing it on there.

Wondering if anyone had any ideas on how to solve?

Many thanks

 

[Charlie George]

You could use foam adhesive to fix the boards, (you could use thicker boards in worse areas) and use the disc fixings to keep it plumb, or attach timber to inside of studs to create a plumb wall.

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Use your track saw to cut some 50mm wide strips of 12mm or 16mn ply or similar (not MDF or chipboard), length as required.
Fix them to the sides of the wonkier stud(s) so the edges facing out are vertical and in line with the other studs.
Fill the gap with exp foam. Trim excess. Fit backer boards etc (or just fix to the 2 ply strips instead of the stud- depends on the spec for your boards)

 

[0Floz0]

You could use foam adhesive to fix the boards, (you could use thicker boards in worse areas) and use the disc fixings to keep it plumb, or attach timber to inside of studs to create a plumb wall.

That’s a great shout regarding attaching timber inside. So obvious now you say it. It’s one of the main uprights for the dormer. I could do one stud at a time and then remove the dodgy ones. The spacing is more like 400mm and I know they want 300mm for the backer board. I was hoping 100mm wouldn’t matter as it’s only a small room 1.6m x 1.8m.

I’m going to be using 300x600mm tiles on the wall so I’m wary about using foam given the weight of the tiles.

Also, I’ve got to rip off the exterior of the dormer and re clad it so it may be worth doing that first to see if it can be improved from that side.

Thank you

Use your track saw to cut some 50mm wide strips of 12mm or 16mn ply or similar (not MDF or chipboard), length as required.
Fix them to the sides of the wonkier stud(s) so the edges facing out are vertical and in line with the other studs.
Fill the gap with exp foam. Trim excess. Fit backer boards etc (or just fix to the 2 ply strips instead of the stud- depends on the spec for your boards)

I do have some ply offcuts from doing the floor. The problem is all the studs are out (thankfully all by 20mm so not having to do each one different. Assume you can only drill into the plys face? Not the sides? Thank you

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Depends how thick the ply is. Good 18mm you'll get a decent bite with a screw in the edge, cheap 12mm shuttering ply would be a bit iffy.
Safest will be foam the gap then long screws into the actual studs.
The overall weight of a tiled wall will be similar whatever size tiles you use...

 

[Diver Fred]

How deep does your track saw cut? If it will cut 45 or 50mm then get some timber that thickness and cut some long wedges to fix to the face of the studs. Support the back edge of the saw track on a second length of timber. Fix to the studs first.
When fixing the backerboard use screws that go 2/3 to 3/4 of the way into the studs - certainly no less. Try to finish the screw heads flush with the surface of the backerboard not proud and certainly not deeply (2+mm) below. Use proportionally more screws in the studs - i.e. If you calculate that a 1200x600 board should have 20 screws fixing it then with 400mm stud spacing use a 200mm screw spacing in the studs.

 

[0Floz0]

Depends how thick the ply is. Good 18mm you'll get a decent bite with a screw in the edge, cheap 12mm shuttering ply would be a bit iffy.
Safest will be foam the gap then long screws into the actual studs.
The overall weight of a tiled wall will be similar whatever size tiles you use...

Ah good point. I’ve got some decent 18mm. I’ll have a think.

Thank you

How deep does your track saw cut? If it will cut 45 or 50mm then get some timber that thickness and cut some long wedges to fix to the face of the studs. Support the back edge of the saw track on a second length of timber. Fix to the studs first.
When fixing the backerboard use screws that go 2/3 to 3/4 of the way into the studs - certainly no less. Try to finish the screw heads flush with the surface of the backerboard not proud and certainly not deeply (2+mm) below. Use proportionally more screws in the studs - i.e. If you calculate that a 1200x600 board should have 20 screws fixing it then with 400mm stud spacing use a 200mm screw spacing in the studs.

Track saw will do 55mm.

When you say fix to the studs first, do you mean before cutting? I’ve got the recommended screws for the board which are 30mm (board is 10mm) so I’ve got the 2/3.

Thank you

 

[Diver Fred]

Track saw will do 55mm.

When you say fix to the studs first, do you mean before cutting? I’ve got the recommended screws for the board which are 30mm (board is 10mm) so I’ve got the 2/3.

Thank you

As the track saw will cut 55mm then you can cut timber the width of the stud - which I expect is about 50mm sawn. that is the timber you need. Cut the long wedges to finish something like 50x20mm at the thickest end. fix that to the face of the studs. Once cut fix to the studs before the backer board to ensure they solve the out of plumb, out of line/square issues.

What size are the existing studs? (3x2) 50x75mm approx?
Use the 30mm screws to fix the wedges. Take it from a worrier - I'd be really concerned with fixing the final amount of weight with tidly little 30mm screws - you should fix the backer board with 60mm screws at the point of the finished wedge, 75 or 80 mm at the thickest end. I would ensure the screws (must) go into the studs 2/3 to 3/4 of the way into the studs*. The length of the screws calculate 3/4 of the stud depth + the thickness of the Wedge + the thickness of the backer board anything less, in my book, is asking for trouble.

YMMV.

*I use 5x60 screws when affixing Backer Boards into brick.

 

[oldbutnotdead]

If you do go the route of ripping 2 x 2w firrings to straighten the studs you'll want a ripsaw blade for the saw (so you can cut with the grain). Me I'd sideplate the studs with ply- much easier

 

[Deleted member 174758]

If you do go the route of ripping 2 x 2w firrings to straighten the studs you'll want a ripsaw blade for the saw (so you can cut with the grain). Me I'd sideplate the studs with ply- much easier

Likewise, and how I do this sort of job. Far faster and likely to be a lot more accurate (ripping down 2 x 2 studs to form long tapers with a "track saw" is a PIA because of the issues you get supporting the rail and stopping the material from moving, etc). 20mm could be taken out using 2 x 1in softwood laths. Set the add-ons dead plumb at either end of the area to be plumbed up, run a couple of taught strings between them and align the intermediate add ins to the string lines (OK, you also need blocks and a matching traveller to do this)

BTW - 55mm depth of cut for a "track saw" is generally 50mm when the saw is used in the rail because you need to account for the rail thickness (5mm)

 

[0Floz0]

As the track saw will cut 55mm then you can cut timber the width of the stud - which I expect is about 50mm sawn. that is the timber you need. Cut the long wedges to finish something like 50x20mm at the thickest end. fix that to the face of the studs. Once cut fix to the studs before the backer board to ensure they solve the out of plumb, out of line/square issues.

What size are the existing studs? (3x2) 50x75mm approx?
Use the 30mm screws to fix the wedges. Take it from a worrier - I'd be really concerned with fixing the final amount of weight with tidly little 30mm screws - you should fix the backer board with 60mm screws at the point of the finished wedge, 75 or 80 mm at the thickest end. I would ensure the screws (must) go into the studs 2/3 to 3/4 of the way into the studs*. The length of the screws calculate 3/4 of the stud depth + the thickness of the Wedge + the thickness of the backer board anything less, in my book, is asking for trouble.

YMMV.

*I use 5x60 screws when affixing Backer Boards into brick.

I’m using the Sts nomoreply boards. I think the screws (and washers) are to hold the boards in place whilst the glue sets. That’s what they recommend so if any issues I’ll be going after them for compensation. I’m a worrier too and did think 30mm was a bit short but if it’s glued on every stud and noggin I’m hoping it will be ok.

Yeah current studs are 50x75. It’s not a huge amount of tiling. Only got 17 boards including the floor. I might stick some longer screws in on the corners. Which type of screw do you use?