Warped shiplap cladding

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bsr

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Hi All

What would you do with this warped piece of shiplap? Ideally something that doesn't prevent me painting over (so silicone is out). The gap is up to 10mm.

Is it just crap timber or could there be another cause?

Thanks

DSC_0230.JPG
 
I can't see an actual warp. where is it?

it looks as if it was built without the overlap. Or has it just shrunk a lot?

i can't see the fixing nails. Are they just through the little tongue? (may have split if so)
 
It does look like it has shrunk a bit. If it's that bad (10mm gaps?) I might consider pulling it off carefully and refitting it all, and adding an infill strip at the top
 
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Looks like a couple of the central planks were not tucked up correctly with shrinkage due to drying increasing the gap .
 
Hi, yes, appears to be shrinkage. The widest gap is 10mm plus the 8mm of the tongue.

The panels are nailed, I think with a Paslode or similar.

Is removing and refitting the only option?
 
bsr said:
The panels are nailed, I think with a Paslode or similar.

Is removing and refitting the only option?
Click to expand...
Whatever you do to cover over the gaps will always be visible. It depends on how good (or bad) you want it to look.

BTW, are the nail heads oval, D-shaped or round? Most Passy nails are clipped heads (D-heads) and can be got out providing they aren't ring shanks
 
You could cut out the section and fit a new piece in. The new piece would need to be of a deeper profile, so would need to be specially machined or profiled to account for the extra depth, and you would take the back lip off to allow fitting and so then result may be prone to twisting - unless you can get to the back and fit a cover piece

If you wanted to elevate yourself to Shiplap Repairs - Level 9, you could rout out that front lip and a 20mm or so up the board to form a shoulder to receive a new section of timber of suitable depth which can be glued and pinned/screwed on and then finished flush.
 
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