Washing machine: no power CDA CI981

K

kristoffer10

Joined
7 Nov 2008
Messages
46
Reaction score
5
Location
Hamilton, Lanarkshire
Country
United Kingdom
My washing machine (CDA CI981) was an a regular cycle and then I went to put in on a spin, there was no power to the machine.

I press the on/off switch and nothing happens.

I have changed the fuse on the plug, all the other appliances in the kitchen work fine. The socket that the machine plugged into works fine also.

Does anyone have any suggestions to what might be? I also left it unplugged for a while in case that would help.

Any points in the right direction would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks.
 
I cannot find a proper spares part diagram for that machine.

I can find this

CDA-Log in

comarchsfa
parts.cda.eu parts.cda.eu

but it doesn't help much. The resolution is awful and the PDF doesn't tell you what the part numbers are.

I am not in the habit of sending users to other forums.. but if the Mods don't mind, I think that you are more likely to get a definitive answer from the washing machine section of

Washing Machine Help Forum - UK Whitegoods Domestic Appliance Help And Support Forums

Get free help to find spare parts, diagnose and repair problems with washing machine and washer dryers from professional appliance repairers
www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk

I have only encountered a couple of CDA products, and I could not find exploded diagrams anywhere.

If you do get a sensible answer, please provide feed back here. It will help other people given that this site ranks much higher (on Google) than the one I linked to.
 
Are you doing your testing with a multimeter? Have you tested the supply at the suppressor inside the machine & is there an input & output from it. If yes is the door closed properly & have you checked the door switch/latch assy. Is there a supply to the main circuit board.
 
jj4091, many thanks for your reply. I haven't done any testing with a multimeter or tested the supply at the suppressor (not sure how to do that actually, will need to look it up). There is a supply to the main circuit board as I plugged the dishwasher in the two plug wall socket that the washing machine was plugged into and it came on fine.

The door closes properly as well.

Thanks again.
 
kristoffer10 said:
There is a supply to the main circuit board as I plugged the dishwasher in the two plug wall socket that the washing machine was plugged into and it came on fine.
Click to expand...
Hardly a given test. To give you some idea, attended a faulty shower once, it came on, but wasn’t heating, when I tested the supply (L and N) it was only getting approx 89vac. Obviously enough to power the shower led, tun it on but not produce heat. Get it tested correctly or get a multimeter and test it. What you need to test is L and N inside the washing machine, or even a simple plug test.
 
kristoffer10 said:
jj4091, many thanks for your reply. I haven't done any testing with a multimeter or tested the supply at the suppressor (not sure how to do that actually, will need to look it up). There is a supply to the main circuit board as I plugged the dishwasher in the two plug wall socket that the washing machine was plugged into and it came on fine.

The door closes properly as well.

Thanks again.
Click to expand...
How does plugging the dishwasher into the supply you use for the washer prove that power is getting to the washing machine main circuit board, or are you thinking of something else? It just suggests but not proves the socket is likely ok. Using an extension lead plugged into a completely different socket would be a better test. As for the suppressor it will be the component that the power lead connects to inside the machine. Something like this B00GY9G53M
 
As has been said above, the machine not turning on could be down to, door switch (not to be confused with the door closing properly), power switch, power PCB board problems, poor connections etc.

It's time to investigate with a multimeter!

Suppressors do fail and it's worth testing for power passed it, but it is a little way down the list, compared to the items above.
A common failure mode for suppressors causes RCD tripping first, rather than a complete lack of power.
 
jj4091 said:
How does plugging the dishwasher into the supply you use for the washer prove that power is getting to the washing machine main circuit board, or are you thinking of something else? It just suggests but not proves the socket is likely ok. Using an extension lead plugged into a completely different socket would be a better test. As for the suppressor it will be the component that the power lead connects to inside the machine. Something like this B00GY9G53M
Click to expand...
Sorry, I meant that I plugged in the dishwasher in to check the socket was okay. I also put in a socket tester and that told me that socket was okay. So I don't know that power is getting to the WM main CB.
 
RandomGrinch said:
It's time to investigate with a multimeter!

Suppressors do fail and it's worth testing for power passed it, but it is a little way down the list, compared to the items above.
A common failure mode for suppressors causes RCD tripping first, rather than a complete lack of power.
Click to expand...
Surely the way to fault find a dead machine is to go logically from the supply inwards to other components, difficult with no circuit diagram I know, but better than starting to try to test individual parts. Just needs bit of patience in trying to physically trace cables & wires. Also not having a circuit diagram for this machine makes me wonder if they have a separate power module
 
jj4091 said:
Surely the way to fault find a dead machine is to go logically from the supply inwards to other components,
Click to expand...
Yes, I wasn't disagreeing with anyone ;)

Although to me, 'time to investigate with a multimeter', means checking the continuity of the wiring along the supply, passed the suppressor, the mains switch, the door interlock and onto the power PCB.

The CDA brand is owned by Amica - the AWDT814S appears to be similar to the C1981, but there may be more hits for spare parts:


....and @kristoffer10 , how old is the machine? Apparently five year warranties were available on some CDA machines, although this may have been an optional extra.
 
RandomGrinch said:
As has been said above, the machine not turning on could be down to, door switch (not to be confused with the door closing properly), power switch, power PCB board problems, poor connections etc.

It's time to investigate with a multimeter!

Suppressors do fail and it's worth testing for power passed it, but it is a little way down the list, compared to the items above.
A common failure mode for suppressors causes RCD tripping first, rather than a complete lack of power.
Click to expand...

I am happy to go with most of your post, but the door switch? Why would that prevent the machine turning on?
 
opps said:
I am happy to go with most of your post, but the door switch? Why would that prevent the machine turning on?
Click to expand...
Sorry, yes I was mixing up troubleshooting steps. I haven't taken apart a washing machine for a while and was being stupid!
 
RandomGrinch said:
Sorry, yes I was mixing up troubleshooting steps. I haven't taken apart a washing machine for a while and was being stupid!
Click to expand...

No probs.

The last machine that I had to fix was my mum's Miele.

I pulled it out and in doing so didn't realise that I put the flex under massive strain. The live spade connector became loose and started to arc.

The spades were the uninsulated types that crimp at two points, on the insulation, and additionally on the cores.

Search results for: 'Uninsulated Push-On Terminals 6.3 x 0.8mm'

www.cablecraft.co.uk www.cablecraft.co.uk

After ordering the wrong sized crimps (and other bits to fulfil the minimum order for free delivery), I then had to place another order. I spent over £50, and then had to pay another £20ish (really good price for a bonefide German crimping tool designed specifically for those types of crimps), oh, and then I paid for a longer flex...

For what it is worth, I have only ordered from Cable Craft on those two occasions but I would order from them again. The crimping tool, I ordered from someone on eBay. CableCraft only sell the professional/continuous use crimping tools.
 
RandomGrinch said:
Yes, I wasn't disagreeing with anyone ;)

Although to me, 'time to investigate with a multimeter', means checking the continuity of the wiring along the supply, passed the suppressor, the mains switch, the door interlock and onto the power PCB.

The CDA brand is owned by Amica - the AWDT814S appears to be similar to the C1981, but there may be more hits for spare parts:


....and @kristoffer10 , how old is the machine? Apparently five year warranties were available on some CDA machines, although this may have been an optional extra.
Click to expand...
The machine is two years old, only went out of labour warranty two flipping months ago, but there is 5 years parts still available.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top