Wear and tear or building work

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Hi

I live in a block of flats where they are building extra floors. I am ground and the extra 2 floors are going above the 3rd this has gone through planning, structural engineer etc.

I've raised an issue with my door as some of the doors on the higher floors have issue with compression due to the new weight.

The developers engineer came and looked and said he believes it was wear and tear rather than due to the building work.

My door is stuck in place but when it's pulled out it will move along the runners (tilt and slide) without an issue but would have to be pushed into the frame. I've requested quotes for someone to take a look but they have said it's difficult to get parts for this type of door.

The frame doesn't looked warped but wondered is there a way I can tell and prove if it is related to the building work (I.e Would a level show parts of the frame is no longer level and could be due to movement of the building/compression etc).

If it's wear and tear and I need to fix it I will look at getting it replaced, but want to rule out it's not related to the work going on in the building.

Thanks in advance
 

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Can't say you can prove it's the building work or not. In theory the lintel should be stopping any extra compression but that all depends on the type of lintel. You could put a level on it and look for any ' bowing ' or unevenness. If its unlevel then that will cause issues.
You say it gets stuck upon closing/opening...whereabouts is it binding?
Tilt and Slides are horrible things in my opinion and very few get fitted these days, and as you've already heard , getting parts for them can be a nightmare ( depends on hinge/lock manufacturer and age of door )
 
my thoughts and general comment
"The developers engineer" [ biased by default]says try again and say it was fine before you started

ask others what problems they have had or keep your eye open for others having similar problems sorted but wont talk about it [gag clause]
if they are doing the same senario else where try web searches for information for and against to see the way they opperate fair or fowl ??
 
my thoughts and general comment
"The developers engineer" [ biased by default]says try again and say it was fine before you started

ask others what problems they have had or keep your eye open for others having similar problems sorted but wont talk about it [gag clause]
if they are doing the same senario else where try web searches for information for and against to see the way they opperate fair or fowl ??
The partywall surveyor recorded several existing doors with issues within the building prior to when the work started, mine was fine. They are about 10 years old.

I am in the process of selling, so if i can't easily prove that it's due to the work - I will take the hit as it's not worth the hassle.
 
Can't say you can prove it's the building work or not. In theory the lintel should be stopping any extra compression but that all depends on the type of lintel. You could put a level on it and look for any ' bowing ' or unevenness. If its unlevel then that will cause issues.
You say it gets stuck upon closing/opening...whereabouts is it binding?
Tilt and Slides are horrible things in my opinion and very few get fitted these days, and as you've already heard , getting parts for them can be a nightmare ( depends on hinge/lock manufacturer and age of door )
It's difficult to see where it's sticking, what's interesting is that it appears to be scraping on the side of the frame before it moves across to align to the frame. I have to push at the bottom left to move it across.

The material of the door is wood.

If I do replace this door does it need to be a fire door as I am ground floor. The lock is inside so it's not for entry but for exit. It exit out to the outside.
 

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Plastic doorsets are susceptible to movement of the structure around it, and so there is the need for sufficient gaps around the frame to allow for this and normal expansion of the frame.

Typically, if a plastic door is going to bind, it will do so in the heat of summer sunshine, not start doing it in colder months - unless there is a problem with the running gear.

The nature and location of the binding would typically determine the cause of it.

Generally, never rely on the opinion of someone working for and paid by the firm you are making a claim against.
 
Plastic doorsets are susceptible to movement of the structure around it, and so there is the need for sufficient gaps around the frame to allow for this and normal expansion of the frame.

Typically, if a plastic door is going to bind, it will do so in the heat of summer sunshine, not start doing it in colder months - unless there is a problem with the running gear.

The nature and location of the binding would typically determine the cause of it.

Generally, never rely on the opinion of someone working for and paid by the firm you are making a claim against.
Thanks - I appreciate the need to get independent advice hence the reason for this post. Engineers I have reached out to quote for repairing the door have been reluctant to attend due to the type of mechanism and availability of parts.

The door is wood rather than uPVC.
 
Being that you are having to push the bottom left to get it to locate probably it may just require adjustment . A good way to find out of the opening is ' square ' would be to measure the diagonals of the opening, they should be the same. Also measure width and heights at several points , trying to determine if its a frame issue or not
 
Could the wood be damp and slightly swollen?
Was it like this last year?
 
The door is wood rather than uPVC
Oh. :rolleyes:

It's the opposite to timber, expands in cooler humid weather like autumn/winter. Can occur even after never doing so for years previously as the protective coating wears, or just due to a specific combination of time/temperature/humidity.
 
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