What bearing for a Miele vac motor

[Johnking]

So my 3y old Miele vac choked after someone tried to use it to suck hair out of a shower.

I know, right!

What happened was, one of the bearings on the motor drive shaft exploded, I think maybe water got in through the seals. I was about to buy a new machine because replacement motors for these are ££££. Then I realised I could buy a small bearing puller and replace the bearing, and that would be both satisfying, fun, and cheap!

I can see that the other, identical, bearing on the shaft is a CW 608 LVH. 608's are commonplace, but there are various seal and shield options. Furthermore, A couple of washers? shims? are present. The smaller one might have been part of the bearing, the larger was in the motor case where the bearing is seated.

Looking at the attached photos, can anyone advise me exactly what I need?

Many thanks!

 

[wolfcatt]

608 bearing. Skateboard shop.

 

[Burnerman]

It looks like a RS (rubber sealed) bearing.
A direct replacement is fine, but a ZZ sealed (metal seals) is possibly better......the ambient conditions determine the type of seal.
The metal shim looks like it has come from the inner track of the bearing , similar items are used as spring shims that prevent the bearing from being pressed too far onto the shaft......in reality you wouldn’t notice any difference.
John

 

[conny]

Commo ly known as a 608 2RS, (as Burnerman says), so easily obtainable.
Any motor factors/car spares places may have them or look for a local company that repairs electric motors. They will have them on their stock list and probably let you have one for a few quid.
Again, (as Burnerman say), the 'shims' look like part of the bearing seals so can be thrown away. If you have any perfectly flat shims, (i.e. very thin flat washers), these should be re-fitted but not absolutely vital unless they are about 0.5mm or thicker, in which case it is best to re-fit them.
To fit the bearing without damaging it is critical and the easiest way is to pop the bearing into the oven on medium heat for a few miutes. It needs to be hot enough so you can't hold it in your bare hand, but not to hot that you need more than an oven glove to handle it. Use a glove with fingers, not a mitt. If the shims go behind the bearing, make sure these are fitted first so the bearing doesn't lose heat while you fiddle about with them. Another advantage is to pop the armature into the freezer for 15-30 minutes before heating the bearing. This will contract the shaft area and the oven will expand the bearing race. You can then simply slide the bearing on without the use of force. Let it cool naturally before trying to re-assemble the motor.
While you have it apart make sure the field windings are completely dry and the carbon brushes are in good shape, dry and slide in and out the boxes easily without undue pressure or slackness from side to side. If there is slackness then replace them. If they are tight pop them in the oven with the armature in case they are damp or gently rub the sticking sides on very smooth emery.