What flooring to get in bathroom?

Thanks all. I think LVT is the way to go. Im going to have a look in store tomorrow.

Ideally I would sand/stain the original floorboards, but as I get old maintenance is taking presidence over aesthetic.
 
I've got solid wood bamboo planks in mine, it's doesn't seem to care about water, but I mop up as needed.
 
Hi guys,

Ive decided to sand/varnish this floor. I thought it would be a nice little DIY project for myself, and if I mess it up I can just get some LVT laid on top of it. :)

I have these 2 products:
https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-wood-flooring-sealant-oak-310ml/50081
https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-quick-dry-floor-varnish-satin-2-5ltr/95447

How best to do this? Perhaps in the following order:
1) Sand the floor to remove as much of the paint and water stains as possible. Should I start with a rough sandpaper (120?) and then go over it again with a smoother sandpaper (180)? What type of sandpaper should I get?
2) Fill the gaps between floorboards with the sealant. (Wont it just fall down in the gaps? Perhaps theres a technique to this?)
3) 3 coats of varnish.

Are there any tips or gotchas I should watch out for?

Thanks
 
I'm having a new floor fitted and the fitter has recommended using Karndean flooring. It's worth a look, otherwise go with the vinyl tiles already suggested in this thread. Leaving your floorboards varnished will not seem such a good idea in a year or two.
 
ax222s said:
How best to do this? Perhaps in the following order:
1) Sand the floor to remove as much of the paint and water stains as possible. Should I start with a rough sandpaper (120?) and then go over it again with a smoother sandpaper (180)? What type of sandpaper should I get?
2) Fill the gaps between floorboards with the sealant. (Wont it just fall down in the gaps? Perhaps theres a technique to this?)
3) 3 coats of varnish.
Click to expand...
P120 is more of a finishing grade than one to start with. To get the paint up and marks out either scrape it or go over with P80 (or if really bad P60 then P80) sandpaper first. If the floor has already been lacquered then a stearated abrasive (generally white - the stearate is effectively a non-stick additive) is a better choice as it will load yp with dust less readily. Open coat abrasives perform better than closed coat abrasives on softwoods, which can glaze and clog easily if you don't clear them regularly. Then finish with P120 - I doubt you'll benefit from going to P180, but see what it's like after you've sanded to P120. Aluminium oxide (alox) sanding paper. Always clean up thoroughly when you change grits - a vacuum cleaner is ideal. Sand with the grain direction

If the gaps are so big that stuff is falling down though them pack to within 3mm (1/8in) of the surface with a gaps filling foam piping such as Fossa Caulk Saver. Are you hand sanding? That'll be hard work

I'm with others, though, in that I'd have something like LVT onto a layer of plywood as opposed to bare boards or laminate
 
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Thanks guys. I know youre right about it being best to use LVT/Vinyl. Its just a mental block I have (rightly or wrongly): I live in a cottage and covering real wood over with fake wood feels counter-intuitive.

So yes, ultimately, I think I will LVT it, but for now its a little DIY job for myself. Its only 1.6 square metres, so I think hand-sanding will be ok. If I get fed up with it perhaps the LVT will be laid sooner than I expected! :LOL:
 
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