What screws/plugs to use to attach skirting to a solid wall?

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Removed old skirting to decorate a number of rooms. The plaster got damaged quite badly, so no way I can glue the new skirting in place. Not to mention the fact that it is an old house and there doesn't seem to be a 90 degree corner or straight wall.

I've been putting this job off for 5 months, but really need to get on and do it now. Didn't find a lot of information, but what I found was that I need 70mm long screws. I am unclear on the diameter of these, and I also can't seem to figure out which plugs I need. Not to mention that the local Wickes/Screwfix don't carry 70mm masonry screws.

Any advice would be welcomed. Feel free to link me to an online store, and I'll very happily buy them off there as otherwise I'm likely to put this off for another 5 months - which won't make the wife very happy.
 
Won't you need to plaster, to stop the skirting bending inwards? Then gripfill.

Low expansion foam adhesive?
 
Your screws are going into the plastic rawlplugs so they don't need to be masonry screws. They need to be the correct length to go through your skirting, plus the thickness of your plaster, plus an inch or so into your brick. So if your skirting is 19mm, plus your plaster is maybe 25mm, plus another 25mm or so into your brick then you're correct you'll need screws about 70mm. However if your plaster is thinner you can reduce the screw length accordingly, or you can drill deeper into the brick if you get to a thin bit or if your screws are a little too long. Also bear in mind you'll probably want to recess the screw heads into the skirting so you can gain a few mm there. I'd use standard red coloured plastic rawlplugs from B&Q etc, and either 2.5 or 3 inch screws. Drill smallish holes through the skirting and into the plaster/brickwork then remove the skirting, then drill the correct size hole into the brick. Place the rawlplug into the hole and hammer it home (gently or it might bend/break). Then screw a screw slightly into the plug and hammer it deep enough into the hole such that it holds in the brickwork, then remove the screw again.
 
sometimes an old house has wooden offcuts nailed to the wall, and the skirting is fixed to those for a superior job.

Consider putting wooden battens to the wall (no plaster under them) with one having its top edge aligned to where the top of the skirting should be, and one about an inch above the floor. You can then pack or repair the plaster to meet the battens. If necessary you can pack or shave the battens so they are perfectly even. Use good long screws into plasplugs to fix the batten. Then you only need a small countersunk screw to fix the skirting to the batten. If you are going to stain or varnish the skirtings, use brass screws, otherwise, recess csk screws slightly below the surface, fill and paint.
 
IF you can fit a batten on the wall under the plaster to level the bottom to the plaster then that's very handy, else you might see if you can knock cheese shaped wedges into the gaps between the stones.
When I removed my skirting recently I bought several of these out, kept them to knock back in to reuse - hammer them in.
I eventually ended up with 2 screws & lots of gripfil :)
 
Thanks for the replies guys! As far as wall plugs go, I guess these cheap red rawlplugs will do fine? Or do I need the more expensive "uno" version?

As far as screws go, what diameter would I need? I can see there are double and single countersunk (csk?!) screws, what is the difference and which one do I need?

Would these Double Self-Countersunk 6 x 70mm screws work? I like the "self-countersunk" sound, as I guess that means I don't have to do it?

Sorry for the probably stupid questions. I bought a house that I thought was "finished" and only needed cosmetical work. I now find myself in a stripped bare mess that needs rebuilding and I'm learning everything as I go along.
 
the self-countersinking screws are a bit rough. The have a gouge under the head that scrapes the wood away. For a neat job I think you should drill and countersink. I don't know what double means.

Red plugs are a bit weedy, I always use brown ones although some will say it is overkill for most jobs. The block of plugs has a flat part with the screw sizes and drill sizes punched out of it.

For the length, as a rough guide, one third of the screw in the thickness of the board, and two-thirds in the wall.

The ones you are looking at are Prodrive which fits a Prodrive screwdriver or bit (not quite the same as pozidrive)
 
Thanks JohnD. What's the difference between prodrive and pozidrive? This might turn in to a very long thread if people keep coming up with terms I don't know. That's a good thing though, I need to learn.
 
Haha. Ok, good to know. So, still not clear on what diameter screws I should get. Any tips are welcome!
 
I would use a 4mm screw, formerly known as no. 8
 
Last edited by a moderator:
JohnD said:
I would use a 4mm screw, formerly known as no. 8
Click to expand...
Honestly, it is like they are trying to make things hard for anyone trying to do something themselves. Would those 4mm screws work with the red rawlplugs? Do you think the cheap ones are fine?
 
If you buy a block of brown ones, they will do for almost all your DIY jobs. I don't bother with red or yellow.
 
I'm the opposite of JohnD in that I mostly use the red ones (no offence meant John). No 8 screws will work fine with them.
 
50mm x 4mm screws with red rawl plugs does the job for me.

Only use screws where the Sticks Like Sh1t isn't working though, usually around 4 per room!
 
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