Window Board Width : Sourcing

[NewG2015]

Hey

We have some fairly deep windows in our home.

Looking at the window the existing boards are about 110-130cm horizontally /width /length?
about 20mm thick and depth from bullnose to actual window is about 60-60cm

Looking to replace them with moisture-resistant mdf one, but all suppliers on line are only 40cm deep?

Anyone know where you can find custom depth bull nosed mdf?

Ta

 

[Mr Chibs]

Have you got a router, you could make your own?

Or I suspect a local joiner could do them easily for you.


Just thought are these coated or just wood?

 

[Wayners]

My local hardware store has a mill at the back and would make some. It's just bull nose mdf.

Maybe you have similar place local or joinery shop.

 

[NewG2015]

Hey Folks

Thanks for quick reply , no don't have a router , yeah would get a joiner but none of them want to do the little jobs, it's all about the big ones. pain in the a$$, hence why I am looking at learning by doing haha.
the only place like that would be B&Q :/

 

[foxhole]

Get b@ q to cut to size , add a half round trim to front edge.

 

[big-all]

go for timber/timba/wood laminate board what ever from b&q/wicks any diy type place they are more forgiving to damp or a bit off wet compared to mdf and come in 600mm widths

 

[Deleted member 174758]

I think that 22mm MR-MDF looks better than 18mm, and if you buy in ready-made commercial window board it generally comes in at 22mm or sometimes thicker. In trade quantities getting made to order wider board isn't an issue, but when I need to get anything deeper than about 200mm it is never off the shelf. In the absence of a router or wide enough off the shelf boards you could always buy a full sheet of MR-MDF, get it ripped to the required widths and form the front edge yourself (or do the same with a pre-ripped piece as @big-all suggests) - but it does need a circular saw (to cut mitres on the front edges), a hand plane (to add the extra facets needed) and some coarse (P40 or P60 grit) to get the rolled edge on the front, and then some P80 followed by P120 to finish it smooth.

MDF is pretty soft and sands and planes easily, so it isn't such hard work. Hopefully these sketches will illustrate the progressions from square board (1), to two 45 degree chamfers (2), then extra chamfers added with a hand plane or block plane, or even a spokeshave (3), and finally sanded to the required shape (4):