Wiring 2nd Generation Nest Heat Link to Baxi Duo-Tec 28 HE a

S

Stephen Crawford

Joined
27 Aug 2016
Messages
6
Reaction score
0
Country
United Kingdom
Hi all,

I think this is be a fairly simple job but just want to make sure I'm doing what I think I should before I go ahead with it.

I need to install a wireless Nest thermostat (so not connected directly to the boiler).

I have a Baxi Duo-Tec 28 HE a combi.

Currently I have a Salus wireless thermostat connected to a RF boiler control that's already wired to the boiler.

I've taken some pictures of how the RF control is wired at the moment and it's manual.

IMG_4426.JPG IMG_4425.JPG

Is it just a case of me removing the RF and wiring the Heat Link to the same terminals the RF was wired to?

eg. from the RF to the Heat Link (HL):

RF (1) to HL (N)
RF (2) to HL (L)
RF (3) to HL (2)
RF (4) to HL (3)

Thanks for your help.

Steve
 
Great, thanks for your confirmation Stem.

The one other question I have would be that the RF wire is plugged into boiler via a kind of molex female plug. I was thinking to strip the wire at the other end and use a terminal box to wire it (if I can't find any spare molex plugs I can use) what amp terminal box should I use?

Thanks again.
 
The boiler control circuits have minimal current draw, in fact the whole central heating system including the pump and boiler should only have a 3A fuse fitted, so you won't need anything very big. Most are rated at least 5A anyway.
 
v6scorpion said:
sorry to hijack this thread
Click to expand...

Then don't hijack it, start your own. See forum rule 6. You will be more likely to have it seen by others if you do, rather than tagging it on an old thread.

From the boiler picture you have referred to, which I have copied below, and as it was posted by someone else, I assume you have linked to for illustrative purposes and is not actually your boiler. The top two terminals shown with the yellow link are the ones you are interested in. If still present, the link should be removed, and one of the terminals connected to the Salus RT500RF 'NO' terminal and the other to the Salus 'COM' terminal

boiler-wiring.jpg

Then the Salus receiver also needs a Live and Neutral supply, this should be connected to the L & N supplied from the same fused connection unit as the boiler.
 
B3B0AA4B-EC08-4A1B-8A52-E967EE87B89F.jpeg There isnt anyway of wiring the thermostat to the no terminal and com as you can see from back of the salus. As for the reciever i have replaced the old dial bit like for like wiring. Them 2 top wires are there from the old hard wired to the thermostat so the link isnt there now.
 
v6scorpion said:
There isnt anyway of wiring the thermostat to the no terminal and com as you can see from back of the salus.
Click to expand...
Correct, the Salus thermostat is battery operated and doesn't need any wires. The wring goes to the Salus Receiver, as I have described for you, and the thermostat communicates with the receiver by RF.

Capture.JPG


v6scorpion said:
As for the reciever i have replaced the old dial bit like for like wiring. Them 2 top wires are there from the old hard wired to the thermostat so the link isnt there now.
Click to expand...

Sorry I don't understand any of that, (other than the link isn't there, which is as it should be) How many wires were connected to the original thermostat, where were they connected to at the thermostat and what was each connected to at the other end of the cable?
 
That is unlikely to solve it, it will probably just mean that the heating is now permanently 'on' The link is only fitted when there aren't any external controls fitted.
 
v6scorpion said:
I have this salus and no wire can go in the thermostat that goes in hallway, ive wired the receiver as the instructions say but it dont say how to do the bit where wire link was or is?
Click to expand...
its all in the instructions , and again photo's would be good then appropriate help can be given ;)
 
Regarding the boiler and Salus RECEIVER, this is what you should end up with.

Duo Tec to Salus.jpg

If you still have problems decommissioning the existing timer, then.....
AGAS said:
photo's would be good then appropriate help can be given ;)
Click to expand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top