It is a paint, but a specialised thin paint designed to seep into wood. The acetone is to thin that paint down so that it seeps better. The hardener is a derivative of the oil version of this:
https://www.ronseal.com/products/diamond-hard-floor-varnish/
The thin-ness of the hardener is probably what caused people, including me, to not shake the can because we believed it's a single liquid inside. It isn't. The solvent and the paint are at different depths in the can.
You are losing me... the product that you linked to is a waterbased product. I suspect that you are suggesting that
Thanks for the heads up on Oxera and Dry Flex. I've gone to town on the board with a wire brush and drill and there's probably enough solid stuff remaining to take a fill.
Cheers
Oxera, like Timbabuild do a "1 hour" and a "4 hour" epoxy resin filler.
If you are splicing in new timber on the barge board, definitely go for the 1 hour. There are however a number of caveats.
To begin with:
1. If the surrounding wood is still soft, regardless of whether you are splicing in timber or using the 1 hour as a regular filler, as you sand the filler, it will rip any remaining softwood that is still soft.
2. If you buy the Oxera, or Timbabuild, you need to buy the compatible double barrelled gun. They can be found for £25 and upwards. Repaircare are the only one that I know of that sells a tube that will work in regular caulking gun. Most of their products are twin (separate) tubes and their cheapest gun, at about £35 is plastic carp [sic]. However, their single tube epoxy is really expensive given how little there is in the tube.
3. Regardless of which brand of epoxy resin you go for, you need to extrude the recommended amount from the tube the first time you use the tube. If you do not you may mix up filler that never cures.
4. At this time of the year, ignore the general curing times. The figures quoted are for an ambient temperature of about 25 degrees centigrade. In the past, over winter, during the frost, I have had to wait 3 days before I could sand a "1 hour" epoxy. RepairCare do sell one that will cure "quickly" at zero degrees- I haven't used it though. Most of the firms will provide info regarding curing times at given temperature ranges. Just remember, the greater the volume of filler, the faster it will harden (because of the catalytic process).
5. They are really "sticky" products. They are nothing like mixing 2 pack "car" filler. You have to be meticulous when mixing them. And even if you you are, the filling knife that you mixed it with may be tacky for a number of days after if you don't clean it properly. I either rotate knives or use decorator wipes to clean them. I use (the smooth underside of) off cuts of laminate flooring as a mixing board. Again I can rotate between a number of "boards".
6. They are much harder to sand than the "car" fillers. The 1 hours isn't too bad, but the 4 hour (which is mainly used to fill really large sections that are structurally important) cannot sanded by hand (you need a really decent sander).
7. Although the above may steer you to other fillers, they are the only ones that are designed for the job in hand. As
@Wayners said, they are the correct fillers to use. If cost is a factor, paint all of the wood, and if your filler is going fail, then at least when the filler fails, hopefully the paint under the filler will still be sound.
8. I am now on my 4th pint- any further questions, I will reply to tomorrow
