Woodburner pipe connections

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oldbutnotdead

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Another (maybe silly) question here. Having to use elbows for feed and return out of the woodburner (yes it heats water as well) due to no space, original plan was 1" straight to 28mm street bend.
So, need to pack the threads on the woodburner- normally i'd use loads of ptfe and some boss white but i've had a sudden 'will ptfe cope with the heat' flap.
I've got some hemp but never used it so unsure how much/how to apply (yes i'll check on Youtube but if i can i'll stick with ptfe)
Ta
 
I know, thats why i was going to use street elbows. Unfortunately i've only got 80mm behind the end of the threaded boss on the woodburner and the back of the chimney is only half brick so i'm very reluctant to try chasing into it.
To be fair the thing has done me 2 winters plumbed with 22mm elbows at the back, there is a. (pumped) loading valve going on the feed & return to the store so gravity feed doesn't have to be super-efficient, just needs to work.
Did you get a chance to look at that shoddy sketch i put up last week? https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/any-intergas-experts-left-on-here.549498/#post-4689949
 
Well hurrah they fit the gap (just), boo time to acquire a 28mm spring & bender, need to jog f & r to get them through the wall to the store.
 
Do you not use an internal spring when bending 28mm tube? Do for 15 & 22...
EDIT Apparently not :)
 
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muggles said:
Or a properly adjusted bender and no wrinkles ;)
Click to expand...
Mmm, funny should say that. My bender is a toy one from Toolstation, no adjustment required.
On my toy for 22mm the roller is 40mm from bottom of form, thinnest part of die is 18mm, no adjustment so this looks like a plan.
This hired one looks like a Record 35, i've set the end hook so tube is level in the form, i've set the roller so clearance from bottom of form to roller is 44 mm (thinnest point of die is 16mm, tube is 28mm). Is that anywhere near? (Had a good search on here and Youtube for setup clues, no joy. No guide marks on the side of the roller carriage, Jewson instruction sheet says put the right size form & die in and bend away. Ta
 
oldbutnotdead said:
Another (maybe silly) question here. Having to use elbows for feed and return out of the woodburner (yes it heats water as well) due to no space, original plan was 1" straight to 28mm street bend.
So, need to pack the threads on the woodburner- normally i'd use loads of ptfe and some boss white but i've had a sudden 'will ptfe cope with the heat' flap.
I've got some hemp but never used it so unsure how much/how to apply (yes i'll check on Youtube but if i can i'll stick with ptfe)
Ta
Click to expand...
Presumably, the pipe temperature will be limited to the water temperature which in turn you wouldn't expect to exceed 80 degrees C.

Would you hesitate in using PTFE tape on central heating pipework?
 
Lower said:
Presumably, the pipe temperature will be limited to the water temperature which in turn you wouldn't expect to exceed 80 degrees C.

Would you hesitate in using PTFE tape on central heating pipework?
Click to expand...
Yeah thats why i wasn't sure if it was a silly question, i'm not sure what sort of temperatures the metal of the waterjacket on a woodburner gets up to. All the rest of the connections will get ptfe/boss white where needed (the thermal store won't go above 95, if it does the overtemp valve will vent).
 
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