Worktop mitre joints without bolts...

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Morning all

Is it possible to cut a mitre into worktop edges with a jigsaw and fit them together without the bolts underneath and expect a lasting result? I pose the question because a relative of mine has asked me to do this.

I've fitted worktops on a number of occasions, but have always used butt joints and metal trim in between. I don't own a router and have never used one, but my relative thinks that by using the cut edges of the old worktops as a template and cutting carefully with a jigsaw, we can create a decent mitre joint then glue it together with PVA. He's bought a large file and some Colourfill in case we don't get the cut right. :rolleyes:
 
No, it will be a disaster.
Once, decades ago, I joined a solid wood worktop by cutting a 45⁰ angle and using biscuits, but it was easier because of the square edge.
I used a circular saw and clamping guides.
Jigsaw cuts will be very wavy.
What material is the worktop?
 
even good quality jigsaws will struggle to cut within 2mm and will tend to fold under on worktops this means the blade starts to twist so top will be say 2mm off line but the bottom will be 10mm off line
 
Thanks all. Your observations confirm my own opinion....that it'll be a complete mess. They're laminate worktops rather than solid wood, so the likelihood is that the edges will be shredded.

Reckon I'll be asking him to think again. Maybe he could buy me a router and template for Christmas, and then I'll have a fighting chance of doing it properly. ;)
 
So to cut to the chase, what tools do we need to do the job properly? A router, but what features would it need to incorporate for cutting worktop joints? And what accessories would we need
for the cutting? And a template…anything else? Thanks in advance
 
Router, jig, bolts, colourfill.
Anything else will result in a mess.
If he wants to go cheap and easy, he can use the aluminium joining strips.
Ugly in my opinion, but save a lot of time and you can easily cut the worktop by hand with a sharp hand saw (less than a tenner).
We use them in tenanted properties and office kitchens to save costs.
 
Router, jig, bolts, colourfill.
Anything else will result in a mess.
If he wants to go cheap and easy, he can use the aluminium joining strips.
Ugly in my opinion, but save a lot of time and you can easily cut the worktop by hand with a sharp hand saw (less than a tenner).
We use them in tenanted properties and office kitchens to save costs.
I did jointing strips in the kitchen of our previous house, and I was pretty pleased with the result. I think I've persuaded my relative to go for the same, but thanks anyhow for listing the tools needed for mitre joints. Having read about routers I now know that you can do much more with them than just worktops, so I may invest in one anyhow.
 
I now know that you can do much more with them than just worktops, so I may invest in one anyhow.
Note you can get 1/4" and 1/2" routers (also metric size , I have a 1/2" dewalt 625 which is ideal for large work, like worktops, and other large pieces i have cut - but a lot more difficult for very small work - so beware of that before just going out and getting one
 
* looks in disgust at our existing worktop joint strips... *
 
You will need a 30mm bush for your 1/2" router and a 12.7mm router bit (50mm or longer).

The bush sits on the base of the router and follows the template. The same template is used to cut the grooves for the fixing bolts. I would recommend paying a bit more for zip bolts. Zip bolts can tightened using using a hex fitting in a drill. Far less hassle than using ring spanners with the regular type of fitting

Personally, I would also fit some biscuits- that will require a 4mm side cutter.
 
Note you can get 1/4" and 1/2" routers (also metric size , I have a 1/2" dewalt 625 which is ideal for large work, like worktops, and other large pieces i have cut - but a lot more difficult for very small work - so beware of that before just going out and getting one

I too have the DW625. Yeah, it is heavy but a 1/2" is essential for the job in hand. From memory, it was originally an ELU machine. Mine is about 20 years old, I guess that the model is about 30(?) years old.

I do have a small 1/4 inch makita edge trimmer, but I only use it for light tasks or when working with thin stock timber. Edge trimmers are cheap (quality aside).
 
Thanks for the further information about routers: much appreciated. If and when I decide to buy one and get more serious about woodworking, I'll bear all those observations in mind.
 
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