That's a "cheap" job not up to normal kitchen fitting standards. If that's what you asked for then... "It'll do". At a pinch.
Did you choose a non-rounded worktop edge to save money, or just because you preferred it?
Leaving the front edge strip going across the worktop a the joint is pretty nasty because it has a rounded top corner so you get an unnecessary groove. Silicone always looks grubby after a while. It looks like they don't match either - yuk, it looks tatty . Normally you'd use a "worktop jig" so the immediate corner has a joint at 45° then straight so a thin strip of worktop front edge is removed. Google the router jigs... like
https://www.toolstation.com/trend-kitchen-worktop-jig/p94888
Yes it would need a slightly longer bit of worktop to get the right length with the right joint - but if it was his choice to do it on the cheap then he's a a bodger and you shouldn't let him get away with it. HE would need to buy new worktop to get the lengths right.
That silicone on the upstand is errrrrr - crap. As Notch says, all the lines should be straight clean and shut so when they're pulled up tight there isn't ANY gap to fill. OK you'd put some white silicone in the joint to stop water getting in but if the laminate doesn't have a texture that's all it's for.
Two routered scribed joints is a couple of hours (4 cuts), less for the upstands.
Usually in a U shaped kitchen worktop the walls aren't millimeter parallel/square so you can angle the scribed joints a
tiny bit so there aren't gaps to the walls as you go down the lengths away from the corners. That's a big benefit of using them.