2007 Renault master won’t turn over, start

Just thought I’d follow up.

haven’t had time to check the switch, but before work I started the van, started easily on the first turn.

stuck multimeter on battery terminal and I was getting 14.46v whilst it was ticking over.

I will investigate the switch this week, just to be on the safe side.

(y)
 
Excellent! The voltage you show is exactly correct which would indicate the alternator is behaving itself.
John :)
 
:cautious: How very dare you sir.

We’ll never know, :oops: but started every time now.

I’m glad, as it looks a nightmare to change the starter, as it’s surrounded by ‘stuff’

pedal switch looks to be worth about 20p so will keep an eye on it. :D

Thanks everyone (y)
 
Mr Chibs said:
:cautious: How very dare you sir.

We’ll never know, :oops: but started every time now.

I’m glad, as it looks a nightmare to change the starter, as it’s surrounded by ‘stuff’

pedal switch looks to be worth about 20p so will keep an eye on it. :D

Thanks everyone (y)
Click to expand...
Hi M,
You must have a different system to my van, as I don't have to press the brake pedal. If you can find this switch, then perhaps it just needs adjusting so you don't have to press so hard?, not sure.
Camerart.
 
Need to resurrect this thread, as I've had the same issues over the last few days.

Problem is intermittent starting.
Key turns, there's some whirring, with foot on the brake pedal (semi automatic) you turn the key, there is a single click, but the engine won't turn, sometimes this will take 7 attempts sometimes less... occasionally first time.

New bit of info, spotted this morning, lots of air bubbles in the diesel line from the fuel filter to the engine.
The 'valve' connector (sorry don't know the term) is quite oily... could this be the source of the air bubbles?

fuel-line.jpg

Once successful turned over, running seems fine.

I read an old thread about a dodgy hand priming bellow being a culprit, mine looks ok, on initial glance.

Any thoughts before I call the cavalry?

TIA
 
Mr Chibs said:
Need to resurrect this thread, as I've had the same issues over the last few days.

Problem is intermittent starting.
Key turns, there's some whirring, with foot on the brake pedal (semi automatic) you turn the key, there is a single click, but the engine won't turn, sometimes this will take 7 attempts sometimes less... occasionally first time.

New bit of info, spotted this morning, lots of air bubbles in the diesel line from the fuel filter to the engine.
The 'valve' connector (sorry don't know the term) is quite oily... could this be the source of the air bubbles?

View attachment 266894

Once successful turned over, running seems fine.

I read an old thread about a dodgy hand priming bellow being a culprit, mine looks ok, on initial glance.

Any thoughts before I call the cavalry?

TIA
Click to expand...
Hi Mr C,
I'm no expert, but could it be one of the coils in the starter motor isn't working? (commutator clean, brushes change or new starter)
C
 
Thanks for that. Think it's pointing to the starter motor... had a look at it today, looks like a couple of items have to be removed first, a bit of a faff :cautious:
 
Mr Chibs said:
Once successful turned over, running seems fine.

I read an old thread about a dodgy hand priming bellow being a culprit, mine looks ok, on initial glance.

Any thoughts before I call the cavalry?
Click to expand...

I would not expect it to be the brake pedal, if you can hear the click when you turn the key. Does it click even if you don't press the pedal?

Back to basics - If it clicks, yet fails to crank, I would suspect either the starter motor or battery. Try turning the key with the lights on, do they dim appreciably? Not dimming even slightly suggest the starter motor. Dimming a lot suggests the battery or it's connections are poor.

Not dimming suggests the starter motor has a bad winding or duff segment. You need to replace it.

The loud click is the solenoid which does two things on a pre-engaged stater motor - it puts the bendix into engagement with the flywheel, then applies power to the motor windings, to make it spin and the flywheel along with it.

Air bubbles in the diesel might affect the starting and running, but they will have no effect on whether it cranks the engine over at all.
 
If it won't start via a jump start then fit a new starter motor.

Go to Euro Car Parts for a price, just type in your reg number

Andy
 
still have a 4 pin starter relay in most vehicles . This is used to control the solenoid on the starter. So like when you put your foot on brake or clutch switch
that then puts a earth path to the relay so it can energise to send power to solenoid when the key is in crank position other items also control the earth path as well (alarm modules ect)
 
baldykev said:
still have a 4 pin starter relay in most vehicles . This is used to control the solenoid on the starter. So like when you put your foot on brake or clutch switch
that then puts a earth path to the relay so it can energise to send power to solenoid when the key is in crank position other items also control the earth path as well (alarm modules ect)
Click to expand...

Thanks, I have never had need to investigate any of the cranking circuits of any of my cars since the 80's. I have the full manufactures workshop manual, complete with hundreds of the circuit diagrams, I it might be worth taking a look to see how mine works.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top