2010 Citroen c5. Things not lining up after trying to refit lower control arm, please help. pics and video inc

I wouldn’t personally support a car on a concrete or breeze block. Either could crumble.
A 7N concrete block on flat is rated to carry about 69 tons. Even if we assert that the tyre is pressing on only 10% of the block's area you're still looking at resting a portion of a car's weight (let's say a third, about 690kg for a 2 ton car) on the block; 690kg of car on a block that can carry 6900kg

Don't forget too that the jack is also carrying weight; the proposal is only to use the block to compress the suspension enough to refit the control arm

Anecdotally, my garage floor is made of concrete block and beam and none have crumbled despite bearing the car for years. In this particular application I wouldn't have a concern about using a concrete block
 
A 7N concrete block on flat is rated to carry about 69 tons. Even if we assert that the tyre is pressing on only 10% of the block's area you're still looking at resting a portion of a car's weight (let's say a third, about 690kg for a 2 ton car) on the block; 690kg of car on a block that can carry 6900kg

Don't forget too that the jack is also carrying weight; the proposal is only to use the block to compress the suspension enough to refit the control arm

Anecdotally, my garage floor is made of concrete block and beam and none have crumbled despite bearing the car for years. In this particular application I wouldn't have a concern about using a concrete block
And what about the breeze block?

How will you move the arm when the suspension is under compression?
 
everything like driveshaft
Don't remove the driveshaft, and be really careful handling it; if you stretch or bend the CV boots too far the CV joint will drop to bits. At that point you'll either need several hours of patience and helpers to put the joint back together, or you'll be buying another driveshaft
 
And what about the breeze block?

How will you move the arm when the suspension is under compression?
Breeze blocks are typically either half (3.7N) or same (7N) compressive strength as concrete blocks

Depends on the setup, in the past I've let the tyre down some so it rolls more side to side, or I've used a clamp to pull it, or to hold the suspension compressed then jacked up again slightly. Sometimes it means everything aligns enough to get a wooden lever into a suitable position to aid the refit. Not dissing your approach of removing the leg- also works but does have some similar challenges like getting the control arm bent down enough to get it back in.

Spring compressors can be very handy for these jobs..
 
I wouldn’t personally support a car on a concrete or breeze block. Either could crumble.
Sorry, forgot to mention.
You would still leave a secondary safety device in place, i.e. jack or stand.
So if the block crumbled, the car wouldn't fall on you.
Common sense when working under a car.
 
Don't remove the driveshaft, and be really careful handling it; if you stretch or bend the CV boots too far the CV joint will drop to bits. At that point you'll either need several hours of patience and helpers to put the joint back together, or you'll be buying another driveshaft
I’ve never come across a CV joint that would come apart whilst on the shaft. You have to remove them and practically turn the centre mass 90° to strip the balls, cage and inner race from them.
 
Last edited:
Not dissing your approach of removing the leg- also works but does have some similar challenges like getting the control arm bent down enough to get it back in.
Yeah, some are tight but on those cars, I find lowering the subframe on that side makes it easy.
 
No, just the suspension strut so that you can fit the wishbone on straight and under no tension.

Thanks but isn't the suspension strut what the brake calipers are on etc and the driveshaft goes through middle of it ?
To remove strut wouldn't I have to take all that stuff off it first ?

Also I can now fit the end fork thing onto hub but middle bolt won't go in it's still not lined up properly
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20221028_113959.jpg
    IMG_20221028_113959.jpg
    283.6 KB · Views: 68
Which part is bush clamp ?

It's the item fixed by two bolts, in the diagram of your first post in the thread. Near the words 'Up in air'.

If the bush is clamped without the car's weight sitting as it would normally be, on it's wheels, the bush will be distorted once it's weight goes back on it;s wheels.
 
Thanks but isn't the suspension strut what the brake calipers are on etc and the driveshaft goes through middle of it ?
To remove strut wouldn't I have to take all that stuff off it first ?

The suspension strut, is the damper, with a spring surrounding it. Likely it will be bolted to the top of the inner wing by three bolts, which you can see when you raise the bonnet.
 
Looking at your latest pic......
Push the bolt into place (some bolts are tapered at the ends to make things easier) then jack the car weight up under the same spot - the centre bush should then line up.
John :)
 
The suspension strut, is the damper, with a spring surrounding it. Likely it will be bolted to the top of the inner wing by three bolts, which you can see when you raise the bonnet.

But isn't the caliper etc fastened to that ? Do I'd have to unbolt all that first ?
 
Looking at your latest pic......
Push the bolt into place (some bolts are tapered at the ends to make things easier) then jack the car weight up under the same spot - the centre bush should then line up.
John :)

That's the problem, I can't get the bolt through the hole .
Also it was a real pain getting that bolt out, the driveshaft was in way bring directly above it and the bolt has a washer thing at top that is integrated into the bolt .

The jack now seems stuck on other side of car I can't seem get it out .


I'm wondering if would be best to take everything off, driveshaft, caliper, strut etc , then tighten lower arm in place and refit everything ??
 
Back
Top