The bush clamp should not be tightened, until the weight is back on the wheels.
Which part is bush clamp ?
The bush clamp should not be tightened, until the weight is back on the wheels.
No, just the suspension strut so that you can fit the wishbone on straight and under no tension.Mottie, did you mean remove everything like driveshaft etc to fit arm then refit everything ?
A 7N concrete block on flat is rated to carry about 69 tons. Even if we assert that the tyre is pressing on only 10% of the block's area you're still looking at resting a portion of a car's weight (let's say a third, about 690kg for a 2 ton car) on the block; 690kg of car on a block that can carry 6900kgI wouldn’t personally support a car on a concrete or breeze block. Either could crumble.
And what about the breeze block?A 7N concrete block on flat is rated to carry about 69 tons. Even if we assert that the tyre is pressing on only 10% of the block's area you're still looking at resting a portion of a car's weight (let's say a third, about 690kg for a 2 ton car) on the block; 690kg of car on a block that can carry 6900kg
Don't forget too that the jack is also carrying weight; the proposal is only to use the block to compress the suspension enough to refit the control arm
Anecdotally, my garage floor is made of concrete block and beam and none have crumbled despite bearing the car for years. In this particular application I wouldn't have a concern about using a concrete block
Don't remove the driveshaft, and be really careful handling it; if you stretch or bend the CV boots too far the CV joint will drop to bits. At that point you'll either need several hours of patience and helpers to put the joint back together, or you'll be buying another driveshafteverything like driveshaft
Breeze blocks are typically either half (3.7N) or same (7N) compressive strength as concrete blocksAnd what about the breeze block?
How will you move the arm when the suspension is under compression?
Sorry, forgot to mention.I wouldn’t personally support a car on a concrete or breeze block. Either could crumble.
I’ve never come across a CV joint that would come apart whilst on the shaft. You have to remove them and practically turn the centre mass 90° to strip the balls, cage and inner race from them.Don't remove the driveshaft, and be really careful handling it; if you stretch or bend the CV boots too far the CV joint will drop to bits. At that point you'll either need several hours of patience and helpers to put the joint back together, or you'll be buying another driveshaft
Yeah, some are tight but on those cars, I find lowering the subframe on that side makes it easy.Not dissing your approach of removing the leg- also works but does have some similar challenges like getting the control arm bent down enough to get it back in.
No, just the suspension strut so that you can fit the wishbone on straight and under no tension.
Which part is bush clamp ?
Thanks but isn't the suspension strut what the brake calipers are on etc and the driveshaft goes through middle of it ?
To remove strut wouldn't I have to take all that stuff off it first ?
The suspension strut, is the damper, with a spring surrounding it. Likely it will be bolted to the top of the inner wing by three bolts, which you can see when you raise the bonnet.
Looking at your latest pic......
Push the bolt into place (some bolts are tapered at the ends to make things easier) then jack the car weight up under the same spot - the centre bush should then line up.
John