Another HIVE howler....

[Hamilton1985]

Looking for some help fella’s

installing a single channel receiver into a systems that has a emt2 and a wired thermostat.

I have tried everything...... as it’s all taken off I only have a diagram of how it was originally wired. All in twin and earth btw

the 240v spur went to the L,N of the timer/programmer, a link from L - 1, and another link from N & L - to N&L of thermostat with another Cable from boiler to 2&3 of the thermostat.

on the hive
- I made the 240v L&N with the cable from the boiler in 2&3 (nothing)
- same again with the link from L-1 (nothing)
- again but in 1-3 with no link from L (nothing)


Swapped the emt2 with the hive but kept the wiring the same with the old thermostat cranked up to 30 with hive off.....boiler comes on but doesn’t go off....

someone point me to the obvious error.....brain is pickled.

TA

 

[plastic_peanut]

Pretty sure you connect N then link L to COM and then connect the BOILER ON connection. There is no off connection.

That’s what I did when replacing my old timer.

 

[Deleted member 267285]

What boiler is it? (Make and model)

Hive needs a permanent live and permanent neutral, which you can take from the spur or piggyback from the boiler. Then on from old thermostat to N/o on Hive and Common either linked from L or from boiler, hence asking which boiler.

 

[Hamilton1985]

What boiler is it? (Make and model)

Hive needs a permanent live and permanent neutral, which you can take from the spur or piggyback from the boiler. Then on from old thermostat to N/o on Hive and Common either linked from L or from boiler, hence asking which boiler.

Its a vokera compact28 se,

are you sayin link blue from old thermo into N/O and link the the common with L?

tried that to and got nowhere, everthings on but the boiler doesnt fire up on request.

 

[Hamilton1985]

Pretty sure you connect N then link L to COM and then connect the BOILER ON connection. There is no off connection.

That’s what I did when replacing my old timer.

wish mine was that easy, i have tried again nothing. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[imiller9]

Was there nothing on 3, CH on on the timer

 

[Hamilton1985]

Not when i first took the off.

 

[ianmcd]

you have made a a big mistake, you should not have put a link from L to 1 on the hive as your boiler is low voltage switching and you have put mains into it, probably need a new PCB on the boiler now

 

[Hamilton1985]

I thought that myself, but when i revert to the old wiring the boiler behaves like it should, seriously confused.

 

[ianmcd]

I thought that myself, but when i revert to the old wiring the boiler behaves like it should, seriously confused.

Be very carefull then as if you connect that up wrong you will put 240v into the 24v section of the boilers PCB, and it will be an expensive mistake

 

[ericmark]

you have made a a big mistake, you should not have put a link from L to 1 on the hive as your boiler is low voltage switching and you have put mains into it, probably need a new PCB on the boiler now

I downloaded the installation guide, and page 32

it shows connections can't see how the anticipator would work if not 230 volt control, I did the normal find for both ebus and opentherm and no result, so seems on/off control only, I found the instructions rather poor, one would expect it to say 24 volt or 230 volt and it does seem to show the use of volt free controls other than with the anticipator. Since Hive single channel can be wired volt free it would seem the best method, why take a chance. However it depends on if BG used enough cores in the cable or if they know one of the thermostat wires is line so have taken a short cut.

Since the receiver for Hive can go close to boiler, I would wire volt free near the boiler using 5 core cable. I would also be actually using a meter to find what voltage used, would not attempt the job without test gear.

 

[Hamilton1985]

Its a weird one,

iv swapped the emt2 programmer for the hive receiver as the plates are the exact same, cranked the thermo stat up to 30, turned off the hive and the boiler fires up and heats the house, the only way to switch it off is turn the thermostat off.

 

[ericmark]

Plates may be same for Hive duel is likely same wiring but single Hive wiring unlikely the same.

 

[Hamilton1985]

So the only way for this to work is to completely start again?

not ideal,

 

[ianmcd]

I downloaded the installation guide, and page 32 View attachment 184482 it shows connections can't see how the anticipator would work if not 230 volt control, I did the normal find for both ebus and opentherm and no result, so seems on/off control only, I found the instructions rather poor, one would expect it to say 24 volt or 230 volt and it does seem to show the use of volt free controls other than with the anticipator. Since Hive single channel can be wired volt free it would seem the best method, why take a chance. However it depends on if BG used enough cores in the cable or if they know one of the thermostat wires is line so have taken a short cut.

Since the receiver for Hive can go close to boiler, I would wire volt free near the boiler using 5 core cable. I would also be actually using a meter to find what voltage used, would not attempt the job without test gear.

That is not the same boiler, The OP says he has a Compact SE, that link you supplied is a Compact standard efficiency, confusing I know but two completely different boilers the Compact SE can only use 240v switching with use of a relay