Are batttens and air gap needed for breathable membrane for a timber framed man shed

j-o-n-n-o said:
Why do you think it is leaning like this?
Click to expand...

If you've not been playing any Sam Cooke lately, then you have not braced the walls off the roof properly. And the lack of sheathing.

You need to remove any screws/nails joining the roof to the walls, and then with a big timber on an angle between the ground and the top of the wall, force the top of the wall back. Then refix the wall to the roof.
 
Thanks for your input everyone 12mm sheathing ply coming tomorrow and ready to straighten the frame and get it sheated up at the weekend.

Sam Cooke??? Must be before my time....

Just a question about fixings. As Woody advised earlier I'm fixing my battens to the wrapped sheathing and making sure they are in line with the studs.

When I fix the 19mm log lap cladding to the battens should I get a fixing long enough to go straight through the battens into the studs or just into the battens?

What length fixing would you recommend for fixing the cladding? Battens are just standard 2x1" treated roofing battens.

Unfortunately I do not have a nail gun to fix the cladding so am going to screw them I think. I've been looking at trim head screws, something like this;

http://www.ffx.co.uk/tools/product/...84309-Trim-Head-Decking-Screws-4.2X63Mm-X-400

What are people's opinions would the head be too small or will they be ok? I thought it might look a bit neater than normal countersunk screws.

Thanks again for all the advice
 
Last edited:
Anyone any advice on fixings? Need to get them for the weekend so need to order them soon.

As I said above don't have a nail gun so going to screw them.

Dimensions are;
Ply 12mm, battens 25mm and cladding 19mm.

What length screws should I use?
40mm to just go into the battens
63mm or more to go into the studs?

Worried about the battens splitting if I go all the way through them.

Am ideally wanting to use stainless so they don't tarnish / rust but there bloody expensive.

Would also like to use the trim head screws link above any thoughts?

Thanks!
 
when i built mine i used ropes and luggage straps to pull things straight. i also added temporary cross bracing at 45 degrees to hold thing tight until all the home made sips had been screwed in.

i also found cladding attached with screws offset helped rigidity.
 
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