Bond and skim, or dot and dab?

Joined
17 Dec 2008
Messages
1,180
Reaction score
54
Location
Nottingham
Country
United Kingdom
Hi all,
So I’m refurbing my brothers house (built 1901) and have totally ripped the kitchen out (4.4m x 2.4m). I’ve had to knock the walls back to brick as the bonding was crumbling and blown.
I’m quietly confident at plastering but by no means an expert. Can’t see any obvious evidence of lime being used.
To have all the walls bonded and skimmed level could cost a small fortune. The alternative is to dot’n’dab which I can do and won’t cost much. However to hang kitchen wall units I’m steering towards the full bond and skim to avoid any cavities etc and ensure better fixing.

what are your thoughts please?

Also, all the internal walls are latte and plaster, some of which I have to repair.
The bathroom, I shall attach aquaboard to 2 walls as I’m tiling then putting a shower enclosure in.
What’s the best way to fix the aquaboard to the latte and plaster wall? Can I dot’n’dab like normal board on normal walls?

Thanks for any advice.
 
can you post pics of the bathroom and kitchen - and from the outside of the kitchen?

what you ask for is simple enough to do but a little more info from pics would help.
 
Thanks bobas, I shall do just that a bit later

edit: now then, which image uploader does everyone use nowadays?
 
[GALLERY=media, 103998]kitchen walls by kjacko posted 20 Feb 2020 at 7:05 AM[/GALLERY]

I can get more pics up tomorrow when I’m back on site.
 
:eek:
I reject your statement and substitute it with one of my own.... :cautious:
“It will be fiiiiine, noooo problemmooooo” :p
 
Dot and dab it. There are certain valid reasons to solid plaster instead, but ease of fitting kitchen units isn’t one.
Re. Aquapanel, screw it into the studs of the lath and plaster stud wall, do not dab it
 
why it would cost a fortune to sort out plaster lath walls i dont know?
they take more time but are simple to fix, prep and plaster.

removing the lath and plaster might reveal and cause other problems - not least dust and rubble, and skipping costs for the debris.
 
OP,
neither do i understand why it would cost a small fortune to bond and skim?

to D&D you would have to fool around exposing solid masonry to dab adhesive onto - and have the above dust and skip difficulties.

bonding isn't needed - rendering the walls, esp given what we can see of the walls in the pic, is the way to go.
 
Dot and dab is more likely to fall within the OP’s skill level than successfully rendering to a plumb and flat surface.
 
OP,
more pics of the kit and bathroom - still waiting for them?

your pic shows damp brickwork and a jumbled blockage of perhaps an external chimney breast.
all the wall plaster needs to come off back to brick - and even if the polystyrene tiles are not coming off easy, they will have to be removed.
do you have a belt sander?
the edge of the concrete floor shows no visible evidence of a membrane (DPM) under the slab.
 
23bc,
i appreciate your post but:
the OP says hes "quietly confident at plastering"

D&D is not the best method of dealing with damp brickwork - it can actually make things worse.
 
23bc,
i appreciate your post but:
the OP says hes "quietly confident at plastering"

D&D is not the best method of dealing with damp brickwork - it can actually make things worse.
Agree, but where has the OP said the walls are/have been damp?
As I said above, if the OPs sole reason not to dab is because he thinks he can’t fit kitchen units, that’s not a valid reason. Agree?
 
the damp walls are clearly shown in the pic he has supplied.
there's even a thin line of possible damp at the floor/walls abutment.

i agree and if i got you wrong i apologise.
 
the damp walls are clearly shown in the pic he has supplied.
there's even a thin line of possible damp at the floor/walls abutment.

i agree and if i got you wrong i apologise.

if damp is an issue, then yes I retract any advice to dab. No apology needed, you’ve provided plenty of useful info.
 
Back
Top