Bond and skim, or dot and dab?

23vc said:
Dot and dab is more likely to fall within the OP’s skill level than successfully rendering to a plumb and flat surface.
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This tbh. There is a big hump in the centre of the long wall (pics to follow very shortly). I’m fairly confident I could correct that with dot’n’dab, but as it’s a 4.4m long wall and 2.7m high, I’m not confident I could bond and set it successfully.
I’m tempted to have a go at the smaller wall 2.2m x 2.7m. What’s the worst that can happen? ‍♂️
 
So just got onto site after 4 days without heating (gas meter moved).
The walls aren’t damp. I think the darkness is the remnants of dust of some sort. The bricks are fairly cold as would be expected but don’t feel damp.
Is there a Jungle math way of testing for damp?
 
[GALLERY=media, 104010]My hump by kjacko posted 21 Feb 2020 at 8:06 AM[/GALLERY][GALLERY=media, 104009]A0A803FE-2BB3-464A-BBBF-FD282A5BA865 by kjacko posted 21 Feb 2020 at 8:05 AM[/GALLERY][GALLERY=media, 104008]C7E6BA7A-6991-4194-B1F2-D65B70B8B96F by kjacko posted 21 Feb 2020 at 8:05 AM[/GALLERY][GALLERY=media, 104007]34ADC48A-6FA7-4D45-8EF4-1A7038CBB342 by kjacko posted 21 Feb 2020 at 8:05 AM[/GALLERY][GALLERY=media, 104006]8410A643-A759-483B-B5EC-6240706C0248 by kjacko posted 21 Feb 2020 at 8:05 AM[/GALLERY][GALLERY=media, 104005]1DFB4243-236A-4194-8BB5-8079890DD952 by kjacko posted 21 Feb 2020 at 8:05 AM[/GALLERY][GALLERY=media, 103998]kitchen walls by kjacko posted 20 Feb 2020 at 7:05 AM[/GALLERY]
 
I ended up using frame fixings to hang our kitchen cupboards, doesn't really matter what's on the face of the wall as long as you go deep enough in to ensure a secure fixing imho.
 
I guess if I d&d I could gauge where the wall units will go, mark the positions on the wall and then ensure that I put adhesive at those points?
Just ordered a 1200mm feather edge and will be getting a speedskim too. In my diy experience (and being my own worst critic) I’ve had some great results that have inspired me, and some that have made me want to never pick up a trowel again.
Extra advice and experience goes a long way. “Fail fast to learn fast” kids
 
kjacko said:
I guess if I d&d I could gauge where the wall units will go, mark the positions on the wall and then ensure that I put adhesive at those points?
Just ordered a 1200mm feather edge and will be getting a speedskim too. In my diy experience (and being my own worst critic) I’ve had some great results that have inspired me, and some that have made me want to never pick up a trowel again.
Extra advice and experience goes a long way. “Fail fast to learn fast” kids
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You can just fix kitchen cupboards to d&d walls like any other wall, assuming you’re not using massively deep dabs, you’re just drilling into the masonary behind and ensuring the red/brown plug sits in the masonary. Maybe slightly longer screws than usual, but it’s no big deal. If it was a stud wall and you weren’t hitting a stud, it’d be different and you’d want to use a special fixing. This is the least of your worries (y)
 
Ok, so the wall is mostly back to brick now. Oh the joys of ancient electrical work.

Safe zones? Wth are they?
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There are so many potholes, I’m wondering if rendering might be better? Or at least some cement based gear?
I now don’t think that d&d will work. I’d have to pack the low points out with so much board adhesive that I’m just not convinced it will be the best way.
 
Was pondering the point of Dot and Dab .... refurbing a 1930's semi, have had one crew in who threw up dot and dab on a new extension and existing kitchen walls, not sure I like the hollowness behind ... I have then later employed a separate plasterer contractor (who's work is excellent) do bonding/hardwall and skim in another part of the existing property (a kitchen) took just him a little longer, but no hollowness !

Surely a wall should be solid (as in the rest of the walls in the house), be better for hanging heavy solid items - such as kitchen cabinets etc, and fare better if it gets wet, where as plaster board turns to s**t if it gets wet.

D&D seems a quick and dirty way to finish a wall, and only little bit cheaper ... or am I missing something here.
 
frank999 said:
Was pondering the point of Dot and Dab .... refurbing a 1930's semi, have had one crew in who threw up dot and dab on a new extension and existing kitchen walls, not sure I like the hollowness behind ... I have then later employed a separate plasterer contractor (who's work is excellent) do bonding/hardwall and skim in another part of the existing property (a kitchen) took just him a little longer, but no hollowness !

Surely a wall should be solid (as in the rest of the walls in the house), be better for hanging heavy solid items - such as kitchen cabinets etc, and fare better if it gets wet, where as plaster board turns to s**t if it gets wet.

D&D seems a quick and dirty way to finish a wall, and only little bit cheaper ... or am I missing something here.
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You’re only missing the fact that d&d is done on the vast majority of jobs every day, due to it being much easier skill wise and time wise than solid plastering. It’s like anything, push fit plumbing, yes it’s “not as good as doing it that old skool way” but there comes a point where people make a risk/cost call. Personally, if I could hardwall at the speed I can dab, then yeah I’d probably do it every time. But I don’t, and can I live with dabbed walls if it saves me lots of time and money, and never have I come across a situation where a dabbed wall actually causes any kind of problem vs a solid plastered wall. If anything, plaster patches blowing/cracking and black mould spring to mind as something I’ve seen only on solid plastering.
 
Thanks for the comment, I get the economics view point.

I questioned the D&D crew, who said as you do, its done on the majority of jobs.
Guess I do not have experience of this finish in a rental property - will see if the 'hollowness' causes any issues, tenants tend to throw/move heavy furniture around without too much care, can see a bed post corner bursting through.

I must be old school, I avoid plastic plumbing, I use it for temporary supplies, but anything permanent behind concealed spaces I use copper ... but thats just me.
 
aaah, most plumbers i know use plastic where it won't be seen and copper where it will.
 
Back again.
So, I’ve decided to have a go at rendering the wall. (What’s the worst that would happen? ) Having seen the pics posted previously and consider that some parts of the wall will need building up more than others, would you go for sand and cement render or drywall? What prepr would you do? PVA or light cement brush with EML(?)
Please give reasons for your answers, thanks
 
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