BOSCH Slimline Dishwasher (SD13G1B) control module

Licklieder,
Hi, I would probably used it as an excuse to buy a cheap desoldering station from China, as it happened I was able to take it into work to remove the IC with the kit they have.
 
Ah yes. I remember those days. One thing i miss from leaving my science & technology employer of 20 years to pursue other options is access to all the kit they have. Used to make fettling, disassembly and repairs a whole lot easier. and cheaper. And then there were the freebies acquired when equipment was being disposed of....
 
Hi Guys, quick update for you.

I fitted the resistor and the IC and all working well after 2 wash cycles now.

I did briefly apply power after fitting the new resistor before changing the IC, and almost burned the resistor. So the IC was definitely letting high current which was blowing the resistor.

I did take the side panels to inspect for any obvious reason why the IC went bad, but couldn't find anything. I did discover a small "oil" leak under the water heater - as in the picture. Is this normal?


PS: I did use my old £15 soldering iron I bought from Maplin 16 years ago :)

hot_water_heater.jpg
 
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I think I also have the same problem. Found out that my dishwasher's controller is "Bosch 00644227". I ordered the LNK304GN and 100 ohm resistor, they should arrive this week. I hope I can change them without ruining the board, fingers crossed :)

4096-3072-max.jpg
4096-3072-max (1).jpg
 
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One approach with the IC (given its not going to be re-used anyway) is to take a sharp/fine pair of flush cutters, melt a solder pad, and quickly clip the associated IC leg off flush with the plastic body of the IC and take away the solder iron. Repeat all the way around and remove the body of the IC - then you can easy and quickly desolder the legs that are left behind.

This minimises possibility of heat build up and damage to the pad, and is safer than clipping the leg cold, where the action of clipping through the leg stretches it a fraction and could be enough to break the pad off.
 
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My package arrived yesterday. I switched the LNK304GN and the resistor and it is working again :) For some reason it didn't take water at the first try, so I thought the inlet valve was broken. In order to try the rest of the mechanism, we put some water (about 5L) into dishwasher and it went through the rest of the rinse cycles without any problem. To our surprise it could also take water after that test run. I hope it is completely fixed now.

In case somebody has the same problem our dishwasher is Siemens SE65E332EU and the part number of the controller board is 00644227.

@YorkshireMidge Thanks for the tip! I tried cutting the legs but they were a bit tough to cut. I gave up on that, because I didn't want to accidentally cut something else on the board. Instead I put some flux on the legs and applied plenty of solder to join all the legs on one side. With enough solder, I was able to melt all of the legs on one side and lift that side up. Then I did the same for the other side and voila, the IC came right off :) There are videos showing this method which were very useful.

And here is the picture of the fixed board.

00644227_fixed.jpg
 
The legs of that chip are a bit on the thick side - I have some Lindstrom micro cutters I normally use.

As an aside, I have seen some videos on YouTube that involve wrapping a thick piece of copper wire around the tip of the iron, and bending it to form two parallel/flat sections of wire precisely to the length and spacing of the solder pads - allowing all the pads to be heated together.

See this as an example.

Never got around to trying it myself but it certainly looks like it would deal with a small chip like this OK. Not sure I'd want to tackle a larger chip like the one shown in the video, and the heat was on that an awfully long time and could easily have burnt the board.

Anyway, pleased your repair worked!
 
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Hi Phil, Many thanks for your and others comments. Likewise my DW was dead and the same resistor was burnt out. I replaced the resistor and the IC (as a precaution) although it looked fine. Got both components from Ebay less than £5 which is a lot better than the £100+ for a new module. The hardest bit was refitting the front panel.
Thanks again.
 
Graham LG said:
Hi Phil, Many thanks for your and others comments. Likewise my DW was dead and the same resistor was burnt out. I replaced the resistor and the IC (as a precaution) although it looked fine. Got both components from Ebay less than £5 which is a lot better than the £100+ for a new module. The hardest bit was refitting the front panel.
Thanks again.
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You're welcome, I'm really pleased that my post was able to help others :-)
 
Hi all,

Just a note to thank you all for taking the time to document this fix. My dishwasher is now back up and running after a £5 repair. Replaced LN304GN with an item off ebay, and had a 3-watt 100 Ohm resistor in stock. Hopefully another ten years use coming up! Thanks.
 
Got the same problem ( possibly) with my lads Neff dishwasher which has the slimline module 00644227.
I’m working remotely with him on this, how do you actually open the module ( once it’s removed) to inspect for the burnt resistor.
I can do the solder fixes when he sends me the board, and I know the module is a click in/out fitting, but how do you get access to the board.
Very helpful thread this esp as module prices vary from £135-225. Thanks Phil and others.
 
Oh well... the best laid plans.
Got the board out, and deep joy, 100k resistor blown, so ordered the resistor, and, thanks to forum detail, the 7 pin IC LNK304GN
EB768452-E8E2-4350-8468-2CF286C7BC21.jpeg


Then to my horror saw this rascal....
39D5EAB5-9DD3-4A1D-86BD-A52FF57C05F6.jpeg


Game over player one!!
Replacement board ordered from Ransom Spares at £138 posted.
I’ll be left with theresistor and IC, so if anyone wants them pm me and I’ll let you have them at cost. I also have a brand knew door reed switch from Neff part# 00187205.
 
It is a bit isn't it?

Ransom Spares is quite an appropriate name at the prices these sorts of modules go for. No wonder so many appliances end up being scrapped.
 
Well, if I had paid a guy to come out, diagnose the fault, then tell me he didn’t have the part, then get a second visit from them and pay them to disassemble , fit the module and reassemble…
Bottom line… if it had only been the smaller components it was an easy fix, but when the big IC blew up… new module time, and that’s a ten second switch out fix.
 
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