Cold Home - Thermal Camera/Flir One

Thanks so much for your replies guys. I'm so glad I joined this forum. Just to be clear - This is a large-semi with 4 bedrooms and there is no loft - It's a proper attic with stair case - Again freezing cold, but it's got floor and roof insulation. A portion of the property (The Hallway) has a very cold coal basement and the rest has a suspended floor.

I'll try answering as many of your questions as possible.

  • Funny enough, I've already done the joss stick technique quite recently. I found there is a draught mainly coming from:
    • The bottom of double-glazed window frames/window sills in almost all rooms
    • Edges of upvc doors / french doors
    • Edges of part suspended floor/skirting boards
  • The Bay Window area is very cold and draughty - In fact it's so cold that we regularly get large amounts of condensation on the windows during winter....is there something missing?
  • Not sure what you mean by the issue within the loft space...this is a proper attic with a staircase...however it's not in use and it's absolutely freezing in there. However the whole attic floor has had rock wool insulation between the floor joists.
  • Also not sure where you are referring to when you say "why is there a light colour on the image that is following the roof line in the loft?". Don't suppose you could post towards it?
  • If I'm correct, the dark mark below the bay window that you're referring to, is actually an outdoor bench
  • Yes, the neighbour to the left has a gas fire.
  • As far as I know, the neighbour to my right has had cavity wall insulation. However, when my property was about to be pumped with the same stuff, a BBA surveyor turned up to do a random check and stopped the job - He said these properties need to breath, hence no insulation allowed.
  • As far I am aware, the radiators in all rooms are the correct size.

I've got loads of photos, but it won't let me upload more than 20 images....is there any other way I can show them, such as direct links to the albums?
 
A cold draught at the bottom of a window can actually be air on the inside cooling in contact with the cold glass and descending, i.e. reverse convection, rather than a leak from outside.
 
endecotp said:
A cold draught at the bottom of a window can actually be air on the inside cooling in contact with the cold glass and descending, i.e. reverse convection, rather than a leak from outside.
Click to expand...
Yes, in fact a strong draught will prevent condensation, so that supports your statement applying to this case.
The hot bricks on the outside will be thermal bridging at the reveals.
 
I'm sorry guys it's a bit too technical for me, but what does this mean? Also I'm not talking about a little bit of draught but draught that pushes curtains/netting/blinds forward.

Btw, thank you very much for your advice about the flooring. As a test, I lifted the carpet in a small corner of my living room where I could feel a draught. I found the skirting had a half cm gap. Now I know it doesn't sound like much, but the thermal camera showed the temperature at the edge to be only 1.5-5C.

I blocked it with some old pipe lagging which I cut into thin strips. I could almost instantly notice the cold air has stopped and the temperature was now approx 10-14C. I now plan to make some time filling all the gaps.

My only issue is that the top of skirting is also showing as cold, but there is no visible gap. Any suggestions on how to resolve this?
 
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Thermal Cameras are great tools but if yoiur inexperienced using them they can drive you haywire.
kind of expensive for a one off but you should be able to sell it on after you've finished with it?
maybe thers some kind of basic users course near you? definitely worthwhile if ther is.
 
bobasd said:
Thermal Cameras are great tools but if yoiur inexperienced using them they can drive you haywire.
kind of expensive for a one off but you should be able to sell it on after you've finished with it?
maybe thers some kind of basic users course near you? definitely worthwhile if ther is.
Click to expand...

I got it for £75....I'm sure they are worth a lot more...I don't plan to sell as I think they are very handy and the price will be paid off multiple times.
 
awilliams, before renovating our master bedroom I used to lay in bed and feel a draft on my face. After further inspection there was an inch gap between the floor boards and the wall.

During the renovation I replaced the subfloor. I made sure there was a 10mm gap around the perimeter for expansion, however I filled the 10mm gap with Soudal Flexible Expanding Foam. I also went even further, I taped the wooden joists and parged above the damp proof course up to 500mm above the subfloor. The idea was to increase air tightness.

When I was researching for our renovation I was firstly very conscious to improve our insulation properties. However, after speaking with an advisor and doing some further research, I found that it would be better for me to concentrate on eliminating cold bridges and increasing air tightness.

Eliminating cold bridges in very intrusive and really only worth considering if you’re taking the work back to 1st stage construction.

Eliminating drafts is a lot easier. Like I’ve mentioned before, you need to check all external window and door seals and replace or repair if necessary. These can be purchased online for little expense. You can even increase the thickness slightly if the windows or doors have a little play in them.

You can also buy draft eliminating strips to go on all internal door frames too. Again, pretty inexpensive.

I’d recommend starting one room at a time. Highlight any potential drafty areas, take some photos and put them up on here. Then we can advise how to counter the problems.

On a separate note, £75 for a FLIR One is a bloody bargain!
 
benjy_b said:
awilliams, before renovating our master bedroom I used to lay in bed and feel a draft on my face. After further inspection there was an inch gap between the floor boards and the wall.

During the renovation I replaced the subfloor. I made sure there was a 10mm gap around the perimeter for expansion, however I filled the 10mm gap with Soudal Flexible Expanding Foam. I also went even further, I taped the wooden joists and parged above the damp proof course up to 500mm above the subfloor. The idea was to increase air tightness.

When I was researching for our renovation I was firstly very conscious to improve our insulation properties. However, after speaking with an advisor and doing some further research, I found that it would be better for me to concentrate on eliminating cold bridges and increasing air tightness.

Eliminating cold bridges in very intrusive and really only worth considering if you’re taking the work back to 1st stage construction.

Eliminating drafts is a lot easier. Like I’ve mentioned before, you need to check all external window and door seals and replace or repair if necessary. These can be purchased online for little expense. You can even increase the thickness slightly if the windows or doors have a little play in them.

You can also buy draft eliminating strips to go on all internal door frames too. Again, pretty inexpensive.

I’d recommend starting one room at a time. Highlight any potential drafty areas, take some photos and put them up on here. Then we can advise how to counter the problems.

On a separate note, £75 for a FLIR One is a bloody bargain!
Click to expand...

Thank you very much Benjy. The model I got is the slightly older Flir One (Generation 2), but I believe it has a higher resolution and almost matches the Generation 3 in specs. Still worth it in my opinion...especially when I can see physically where the issues are.

  • How do I get expanding foam into a gap thats only approx 5mm?
  • There is feeling of cold air/draft on the top of the skirting board, but strangely no gap...any way of fixing this?
  • Some of my upvc windows and doors have cold air and mm or so gaps. How do I tighten the doors?
 
  • How do I get expanding foam into a gap thats only approx 5mm?
Expanding foam will go into most gaps. Make sure you use a flexible version though.

  • There is feeling of cold air/draft on the top of the skirting board, but strangely no gap...any way of fixing this?
It could be a draft coming from elsewhere or it could be coming from behind the skirting. Next time you’re decorating, removr the existing caulking and inspect to see if there’s a big gap. Is then fill with the flexible expanding foam, trim back and caulk over the edge.

  • Some of my upvc windows and doors have cold air and mm or so gaps. How do I tighten the doors?
Upvc can be a nightmare as most times you can’t adjust the hinges. Replacing the hinges might help. I’d be tempted the remove the seals and inspect. These just fit in a small ridge around the perimeter of the windows and doors. If you google search upvc rubber seals you’ll see a plethora to choose from. If your seals are 5mm, I’d be tempted to increase to 6 or 7mm.
 
awilliams said:
How do I get expanding foam into a gap thats only approx 5mm?
Click to expand...

s-l1600.jpg


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fischer-...h=item3f957e3b40:g:PbUAAOSwIgNXo1-j:rk:1:pf:0

I only use the pink fire foam now.

p.s.
you get some narrow nozzles and flexible extension tubes in the box.
 
Looks as if you might need a Fire Arms Certificate for that?

looks like a nice bit of controllable kit
 
@benjy_b - Thanks for the info. Regarding the upvc seals....I got these for my previous property, but the quality turned out to be absolutely rubbish...they were too soft...can you recommend any place or product?

@JohnD - Thanks again. Can a standard foam bottle be connected to these foam guns or is it only specialist bottles? The bottles seem to be very pricey. Not sure how many I'll need to do the room skirting?

Also, don't you guys think I need expanding foam around the window frames or is it because of the outside window putty?
 
you need the "gun" type cans, which work "upside down"

the hand operated guns work when the opening of the can is up.

You can get "everbuild" and other budget brands, they may be cheaper on ebay if you buy 6, and you need a can of the cleaning fluid.

Short expiry dates are cheaper.

There is much less wastage with the gun than manually. One can is probably ample for the skirting in a room.

You'll probably need it round the windows, in the gap between frame and brickwork, especially if they are replacements fitted after the house was built. Take off the plastic trim that hides the gap.
 
Thanks John. I'll look into it and see if I can find a good deal.

Would I only need to fill the gaps from outside of the windows or inside too? What about the cavity gap? Does that also need filling in?

I get the feeling that this type of work is more suitable for spring/summer?
 
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