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The OP says they're making a softwood frame around the door.
If I were the OP, I would extend the vertical element of the frame to the full length of the sheet.
Cutting a door out of an MDF sheet
- Thread starter Deluks
- Start date
If I were the OP, I would extend the vertical element of the frame to the full length of the sheet.
Assume you are using 18mm MDF?
as an asside
you can use piano hinges in the end grain in 12mm successfully with care and they are very strong[ask for process iff required] but iff you want knuckles retracted below the surfaces at all the hinge plate will protrude at the back perhaps up to 2mm
you can use piano hinges in the end grain in 12mm successfully with care and they are very strong[ask for process iff required] but iff you want knuckles retracted below the surfaces at all the hinge plate will protrude at the back perhaps up to 2mm
Thanks for all comments so far.
Using 18mm MDF.
The sheet being used isn't full width, so I still have the full length offcut to use as a straight edge, with clamps.
Haven't quite worked out door size yet, almost to the ceiling, but doesn't need to come down to the floor though as the bottom part is a boxed in stairwell which will be obscured behind the bottom part of the panel.
So the door needs cutting out on all 4 sides, there will be plenty of 'meat' left in the frame, all the way round.
Softwood frame (2x1 & 2x2) is affixed to walls, floor and ceiling, plenty rigid.
I can unlock the depth adjustment in the saw and static plunge to get the hole started.
I haven't used router for a couple of years, I forgot about the multiple pass technique. Sounds too messy though, and all my worst mistakes in the past have been with a router!
Out of interest, has anyone ever used the Kreg hinge cutting jig? £35ish, looks useful.
I have a homemade one I made years ago, but was a bit keen and went through a door that I'd spent ages working on!
Using 18mm MDF.
The sheet being used isn't full width, so I still have the full length offcut to use as a straight edge, with clamps.
Haven't quite worked out door size yet, almost to the ceiling, but doesn't need to come down to the floor though as the bottom part is a boxed in stairwell which will be obscured behind the bottom part of the panel.
So the door needs cutting out on all 4 sides, there will be plenty of 'meat' left in the frame, all the way round.
Softwood frame (2x1 & 2x2) is affixed to walls, floor and ceiling, plenty rigid.
I can unlock the depth adjustment in the saw and static plunge to get the hole started.
I haven't used router for a couple of years, I forgot about the multiple pass technique. Sounds too messy though, and all my worst mistakes in the past have been with a router!
Out of interest, has anyone ever used the Kreg hinge cutting jig? £35ish, looks useful.
I have a homemade one I made years ago, but was a bit keen and went through a door that I'd spent ages working on!
I just use a combi square and a Makita 35mm hinge cutter.
Makita Forstner Bit Concealed Hinge Cutter 35mm
Shop Makita Forstner Bit Concealed Hinge Cutter 35mm online or visit us in-store at Leyland SDM. Next day delivery available.
leylandsdm.co.uk
I pre-drill a 0.5mm hole for the cutter to drop in to.
I have used about 5 different hinge cutter bits in the past, The Makita one is the best I have used. Way faster than the other ones that I have tried, cleaner edges as well.
I haven't used the Kreg- however it will be £35 plus the cost of suitable clamps.
An advantage of the Kreg is that it will set the depth of cut- with the Makita bit I drill until the main part of the cutter is about 4mm under the surface.
From reviews I have read elsewhere, the two holes in the template to screw the cup down don't always line up correctly.