Damp Proof Course Type

Yes there must be a drain running along the side of the house as the kitchen sink drains into a gulley at the side wall. However the drain is below a disabled concrete ramp and would need to break up concrete to access drain
 
Slate just as Bonni first suggested in post#2.

Why do you think that the slate DPC spans the cavity across to the inside skin?

As in my post#6 pics of the interior would help?
Is the inside floor solid or suspended?
 
I have removed some bricks to clear the cavity. I have seen the slate DPC in the wall and I can feel the slate DPC in the cavity. I have taken 4 rubble bags of sand and loose mortar out of jsut two separate holes in the wall so far

The inside is a solid concrete floor. I guess it replaced a suspended wooden floor (originally 1930's house). The concrete floor feels dry. I can see the membrane of the concrete poking through the edge of the floor slightly. It feels damp between the mebrane and the wall.

I'll send some photos
 
Well done, you jumped the gun with opening up to clean out the cavity bridging - I was going to suggest that as a possibility.
With the any new pics can you add pics of where you've opened up for the cavity?
 
Here one cavity

1.jpg
 
That looks like a clean & clear cavity, thats great so keep going.
With a torch and a small mirror you will be able to see further up and down the cavity look esp. for snots on cav ties,
 
Well done in clearing the cavity

I found it easier to remove one corner brick on the outside, and rake the rubbish towards me. A builders canister vac will suck out the loose stuff, you can buy additional metal extension tubes to increase your reach, and poked into sand and mortar, they will break it up enough to suck it out.

You can get a garden tool with a long metal handle and a claw on the end, I think it is intended for disabled people to do weeding. There may be better tools and techniques others have used.
 
Stevecc said:
Yes there must be a drain running along the side of the house as the kitchen sink drains into a gulley at the side wall. However the drain is below a disabled concrete ramp and would need to break up concrete to access drain
Click to expand...

Start with the gulley. It is very likely broken at the bends, and where it connects to the socket in the underground pipe. You may find water, sludge and red worms as soon as you start digging. Also look out for wild tomato plants.
 
Thanks for your encouragement

JohnD, I like the corner brick idea, I'll give that a try

Don't know anything about drains, take it a step at a time

Thanks
 
tell80 said:
With a torch and a small mirror you will be able to see further up and down the cavity look esp. for snots on cav ties,
Click to expand...
or a cheap borescope plugged in your mobile phone - no need for 1930's technology
 
3 holes and eight bags of sand and rubble now

Should there be any concern about taking brick out under windows, about 6 to 8 course below the window and towards the edges
 
Stevecc,
Stay away from removing corner bricks but under windows is doable.
Try and first take out the course sitting on the DPC or from a course a little higher.
Removing six bricks should give you ample room to work in.

Ignore the amateurish nonsense that would have you spending money on an instrument that you dont need.
The opening you've shown is big enough for you to work in yet the amateur wants you to insert a Boroscope into the massive opening.
 
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