Didn't say in the recommendations you have to drive. They just recommend you change oil.
Dipping toe into painting
- Thread starter DiyNutJob
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It's something that bothers me, I have a mini moke that has done 8 miles (on fresh oil) in 2 1/2 years - just wondering if I should change the oil, obviously the engine is an 80 year old design so god knows what oil they had in those days. I have new oil, I think it's 20/50 mineral (but it's definitely the recommended one) but I think it's wasteful and bad for the environment to just throw away the old stuff on the basis of age. Most of the "advice" on the internet seems to be from oil suppliers. I know that on commercial vehicles they test the oil rather than relying on age or mileage.
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Can we change the "if you clean your dashboard with the wrong kind of wet wipes it invalidates your insurance" record please?
First panel done, and ready to deploy. Left: before painting. Right: hand brushed, and hand polished clear coat. Clear coating gave it greater reflection, and will last, hopefully, a very long time. Painting by hand means non-even paint thickness, brush marks, and very grapefruit peel-ly, but quite acceptable for my goal of longevity. The coating is tough and difficult to polish. Easiest to polish using 600 grit sand paper.
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Not sprayed? Pointless
All in good time.
I was spraying some paving slabs earlier. The gun is way too much for what I need and designed for painting busses. It's going to take some effort to tune the gun down. The PSI needs to be way down from 25.
If you are practicing with dyed water it won’t help you set the gun up
The gun needs setting up with the viscosity of material you will be using.
The tricky bit is thinning paint to right amount and air pressure.
Not sure if you have on but you need a gauge at the gun
I know the base coat is watery. The dye hasn't arrived yet. For now, plain water is giving an impression of what is going on. The gun will be adjusted according to the material landed on the target and not on any magic psi number. I am looking for a fine soft mist, and not the rocket jet that I have.
I am testing with 1.3. I don't think I need anything bigger, but I have1.5 and 2.0. I think 0.8 and 1.0 will work. For plain water, full material shut off and backing off 1 turn is OK. For thicker material, I can back off more. I think I can even do primer with 1.3 if properly strained.
Pressure is controlled at the compressor outlet. The gun is spec'ed to max at 100 PSI. There is no risk of over-pressure.
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You don't need to worry about it if you use your brushes
Maybe worth starting a thread on this, as it's a completely separate issue and threads with significant "Nutjob" content tend to get bogged-down with irrelevant BS.
In general, engine oil has antioxidants in it that get used up regardless of mileage, when exposed to air. That's why manufacturers tend to recommend oil changes by either time or mileage. I have pushed my luck a little on cars with synthetic oils that don't do many miles, because synthetic oils are so much better and keeping their properties, modern engines run a lot cleaner, and modern fuels are so much lower in nasty impurities. Not sure I'd leave it a whole extra year though.
Yes you can send off an oil sample for testing, but on a small engine like a Mini, it'll probably cost about the same as changing the oil anyway. On ships, with several hundred gallons of engine oil, it's routine to do oil condition monitoring because the cost of the test is minuscule compared to the cost of the oil change.