December 2021, or December 2022?
This painting is no lark, and has to be taken seriously.................
Dipping toe into painting
- Thread starter DiyNutJob
- Start date
December 2021, or December 2022?
This painting is no lark, and has to be taken seriously.................
Completed priming with flow rate of 3 turns from closed, 1.5 bar at the compressor outlet. The material spray looked more hose-y than earlier and I didn't have to go in as close. The result is comparable to primed dealer parts. No runs, and no dust. I will give it plenty of time for shrinkage while I wait for the next calm day for the base coat.
My expert level has just gone up a level.
My expert level has just gone up a level.
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Some pro tips while we wait.
The car paint thinner can be used for rejuvenating household paint brushes that are full of dried paint - water based or oil based. The candle man on youtube already demonstrated this using cellulose thinner. I have a better way: dip brush in thinner, squeeze out as much of the thinner as possible, immerse brush in water, then give it time to work. The water will prevent the thinner from evaporating and allow it to work on the dried paint. The bristles will trap the thinner in place. The softened/dissolved paint is lighter than water and will be squeezed out of the brush by water pressure. The thinner will kill glue if that is the only thing holding the bristles in place.
Some painters on youtube said don't use the same fluid to clean paint and primer. That's wrong. The high build primer I have is heavy and will sink to the bottom and stick to the jar. The primer is sticky to paint, and all the paint in the fluid will stick to the primer. The end result is clear clean fluid that I can keep reusing. The process takes no effort and only needs time. I use thinner as the cleaning fluid. This might not work for other kind of cleaning fluid.
The thinner can be used for removing smears of cured 2 pack wood fillers.
The car paint thinner can be used for rejuvenating household paint brushes that are full of dried paint - water based or oil based. The candle man on youtube already demonstrated this using cellulose thinner. I have a better way: dip brush in thinner, squeeze out as much of the thinner as possible, immerse brush in water, then give it time to work. The water will prevent the thinner from evaporating and allow it to work on the dried paint. The bristles will trap the thinner in place. The softened/dissolved paint is lighter than water and will be squeezed out of the brush by water pressure. The thinner will kill glue if that is the only thing holding the bristles in place.
Some painters on youtube said don't use the same fluid to clean paint and primer. That's wrong. The high build primer I have is heavy and will sink to the bottom and stick to the jar. The primer is sticky to paint, and all the paint in the fluid will stick to the primer. The end result is clear clean fluid that I can keep reusing. The process takes no effort and only needs time. I use thinner as the cleaning fluid. This might not work for other kind of cleaning fluid.
The thinner can be used for removing smears of cured 2 pack wood fillers.
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Since the r500 can be adjusted to have a fan height of 10cm or slightly smaller, the r100 is more or less redundant for panel painting. One use I can put it to, along with the air brush, is spot repairs. Here's a guy who's rather good at it and gives plenty of good tips.
This thread brings a whole new meaning to the saying "Sun's out, guns out". 
If you are into soldiery, you should join that israeli thread. This thread is about wind. Some might even call it long winded.
Well, the base coat is done, probably a bit too thick. I mistook the light reflection for the white primer and kept trying to give it more paint to cover it up. Someone needs to give me the specsaver's number asap.
Usual problems arose, wind and dust. The dust was less of a problem because the 1k primer and base dried quick, allowing me to shave/scrape stuff off with a blade between coats. Dust is going to be a major pain with the clear coat because of the slower drying.
30ml paint was too little, and 45ml was too much. This gave me a 40ml estimate for the clear coat requirement. Will wait for the next calm day for that. This is going to be multi-week like I predicted at the beginning, although I wasn't thinking about the wind at the time.
I used 1.5 turns from tip closed, and 1.5 bar. I thought that didn't give enough material, and I went in closer, which gave me too much. So the setting was correct, just that I couldn't see well. Despite the paint being thin, there were no runs.
Imperfections showed through owing to poor prep. It seems to me applying primer to fill dips with gun is stupid. It would be much better to brush by hand and sand flat. Imperfections are noticeable from 1.5 feet away, but who looks at it like that? Not me.
Color match was too light but ok. It will get darker with clear coat, and get darker still with time and dirt. I don't find it a problem with minor variations monochromatically. At a regular distance, you can't tell the difference.
Well, the base coat is done, probably a bit too thick. I mistook the light reflection for the white primer and kept trying to give it more paint to cover it up. Someone needs to give me the specsaver's number asap.
Usual problems arose, wind and dust. The dust was less of a problem because the 1k primer and base dried quick, allowing me to shave/scrape stuff off with a blade between coats. Dust is going to be a major pain with the clear coat because of the slower drying.
30ml paint was too little, and 45ml was too much. This gave me a 40ml estimate for the clear coat requirement. Will wait for the next calm day for that. This is going to be multi-week like I predicted at the beginning, although I wasn't thinking about the wind at the time.
I used 1.5 turns from tip closed, and 1.5 bar. I thought that didn't give enough material, and I went in closer, which gave me too much. So the setting was correct, just that I couldn't see well. Despite the paint being thin, there were no runs.
Imperfections showed through owing to poor prep. It seems to me applying primer to fill dips with gun is stupid. It would be much better to brush by hand and sand flat. Imperfections are noticeable from 1.5 feet away, but who looks at it like that? Not me.
Color match was too light but ok. It will get darker with clear coat, and get darker still with time and dirt. I don't find it a problem with minor variations monochromatically. At a regular distance, you can't tell the difference.
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I thought you had got it to dealer levels of quality
Mostly yes, except the bits that are trainee level quality. Still, not bad for a first go.
The R100 gun is in. The compressor could sustain it at 2 bar spraying indefinitely. The pair is basically a match made in heaven. The conclusion is, yes, this is suitable as a first gun for anyone dipping toe into painting with a 6L compressor. The gun has small fan pattern and needs more passes to lay down paint. It also has a small pot that is less convenient when dealing with large panels.
I rate it a good buy. It will allow me to spray on the driveway without misting up the entire neighbourhood. With a 1.0 tip, I could probably get the pressure down to 1 bar. I held back on buying the 0.8 tip. So, I have more options on reserve.
I rate it a good buy. It will allow me to spray on the driveway without misting up the entire neighbourhood. With a 1.0 tip, I could probably get the pressure down to 1 bar. I held back on buying the 0.8 tip. So, I have more options on reserve.
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I’ve got brain surgery off to a fine art and I’m as good as any experienced brain surgeon level except the bits that are at first year medical school student level.
Depends what way the wind is blowing, doesn’t it?
As far as this thread goes, you are catching the wind in your sails. You are a better trainee sailorman than a trainee brain surgeon.