Do you need subbase/sub base and sand under a screed kitchen floor?

Quick update, and further question. Can fibre screed be used as mot 1 sub base?

As expected BC will not sign off the floor, so it looks like we will be diy ing it. It's a reminder of why I have been doing most things on the house the last 6 years. To reduce the amount of waste, and need for a skip, we were wondering if we could remove the fibre screed, break it up. Dig down enough, compact it at the bottom and work our way up with sand, cement, dpc, insulation etc.

Also, anyone know what the shallowest solid floor would be, to reduce the amount of digging.

Cheers
 
Trouble is the screed is a pretty sandy mix anyway so there won’t be much left of it if you break it up. If it’s only a 65mm ish screed it shouldn’t be too massive to dispose of? Depending on room size
Only other option is ask Bc if you can treat the screed as a base and pour a slab on top, unlikely but could ask
 
That's OK, we'll get the proper stuff in!! The floor is level with a suspended timber floor at the moment, so we will be aiming to get the same level and putting concrete on top would make it too tall. We may treat ourselves to underfloor heating if we do it ourselves.
 
Any idea what the easiest/shallowest solid floor would be? Or alternative construction? As we will be starting from scratch, we have a choice.
 
Easiest solid floor is the one in the Approved Docs- 100mm hardcore, 50mm sand, DPM, 100mm insulation, 100mm concrete. Depending on how good you are with concrete (and what the planned floor covering is) maybe allow 25mm for screed or 10mm for SLC. UFH you'd usually need a thicker screed.
 
Nige F said:
Have you allowed for air venting pipes through the solid floor to the suspended one ?
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Yes, the builder put some in but they were away from the brick, so the screeder went over them! We will make sure we do as the previous owner didn't and we have damp issues in the hall. Not sure how to connect them to the airbrick, but will have a look at my DIY Manual book!!
 
oldbutnotdead said:
Easiest solid floor is the one in the Approved Docs- 100mm hardcore, 50mm sand, DPM, 100mm insulation, 100mm concrete. Depending on how good you are with concrete (and what the planned floor covering is) maybe allow 25mm for screed or 10mm for SLC. UFH you'd usually need a thicker screed.
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Thanks, will have look at the approved docs.. Which 'Part' is the the doc?
 
Dad daughter time this weekend, sorting out a leaking boss connector. Then will be smashing up the floor next weekend!
 
oldbutnotdead said:
Easiest solid floor is the one in the Approved Docs- 100mm hardcore, 50mm sand, DPM, 100mm insulation, 100mm concrete. Depending on how good you are with concrete (and what the planned floor covering is) maybe allow 25mm for screed or 10mm for SLC. UFH you'd usually need a thicker screed.
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Does the Hardcore have to be MOT Type 1?
We smashed the floor up this weekend, and will be digging down to the required depth for this.

The DPM had pierced under the insulation, and the floor was all uneven. We are so glad we caught this now!
 
DIYRuthie said:
Does the Hardcore have to be MOT Type 1?
We smashed the floor up this weekend, and will be digging down to the required depth for this.

The DPM had pierced under the insulation, and the floor was all uneven. We are so glad we caught this now!
Click to expand...

You made the right decision, at least when you tile you wont have any worries about it being solid
 
DIYRuthie said:
Does the Hardcore have to be MOT Type 1?
We smashed the floor up this weekend, and will be digging down to the required depth for this.
The DPM had pierced under the insulation, and the floor was all uneven. We are so glad we caught this now!
Click to expand...
Doesn't have to be but for one floor in one room its not worth risking rubble, for 100 tons the sums would change.
And glad you've bitten the bullet & decided to do it properly, that bodge floor would have been a nightmare in a few years
 
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