Dpf cleaning or buying

One thing you might want to check, is if there is another cause to the issue.

The fact you are having emission issues when doing 15,000 miles a year and only 80k seems odd. Even if you aren't revving it, assuming you were doing long trips every so often should have been enough to keep the DPF clean.

So unless that is 15,000 miles of short it trips on multiple cold trips it should not have blocked the DPF or be failing emissions tests.

Unless it has had a poor service history with long oil service intervals and/or the incorrect oil (incorrect weight + should be low saps) you may want to check for issues such as this....



Apparently that pipe that is a common but often overlooked issues that can cause dpf blockages as it is sending the wrong data values and producing a sootier exhaust.
 
Even if you aren't revving it, assuming you were doing long trips every so often should have been enough to keep the DPF clean.

I know mine is a different engine - Toyota - and possibly a different system but, if the OP's system operates in a similar fashion to mine, what you've posted would be incorrect.


Toyota main dealer told me themselves their dpf cleaning cycle ONLY kicks in if:

- the sensor says you're doing >40 mph, AND
- the sensor says you're doing >3000rpm.

Driving to the Moon and back, at 70 mph and in 6th gear, even if done weekly, WILL clog the dpf, as the cleaning cycle will never be triggered.

My frugal motorway driving was - according to Toyota - what had caused the blockage warning light in the first place.
 
I know mine is a different engine - Toyota - and possibly a different system but, if the OP's system operates in a similar fashion to mine, what you've posted would be incorrect.

Yeh, there are so many guides/suggestions on how to maintain a DPF it's hard to say. I could be wrong.

From what understand, most modern cars maintain the DPF quite often without the owner realising. As long as the car is up to a good temperature and over a certain speed, the Engine Management begins the process (changes the air/fuel mix to increase the temp?) regardless of revs. As long as the car is up to temp and going at a certain speed for a long enough time.

This is different from the process where a light comes on and you are encouraged to take it for a run at a certain speed/revs to give it a clean. That is like final warning type thing.

In fact, this is on the Toyota website:
"The regeneration occurs automatically, usually without the driver being aware that it is taking place. In the majority of cases, the process is carried out when the engine and exhaust system has reached normal operating temperature and the vehicle is travelling at over 40mph."

But like I said, DPF management seems like a dark art sometimes. So I could be mistaken as you say.

But, the main gist I was getting at was to check for other underlying causes that maybe being missed and could potentially be a much cheaper fix.
 
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In fact, this is on the Toyota website:
"The regeneration occurs automatically, usually without the driver being aware that it is taking place. In the majority of cases, the process is carried out when the engine and exhaust system has reached normal operating temperature and the vehicle is travelling at over 40mph."

Thanks for that info. :)


Could be word-for-word correct on the Toyota website (and the verbal advice that I was given - >3000rpm - was cobblers), or that Toyota decided that to publicise the need for high revs was "not a good look"......


...and that they hoped / expected that "normal" driving would get the revs up enough anyway, from time to time.

?


Certainly, it took over 100k miles for my dpf warning light to come on, so my many miles of pottering took a long time to catch up with me :)
 
Right I have the answer !!!

The mot guy has just been to do the diagnostic and the additive tank is totally empty. This is not adblue but another additive which is pushed into the DPF.

So he will add some later this week. He needs to ramp it up and remove the tank.

No warning lights have popped up however, so this is a bit strange.

I generally do the oil every 12k miles or 6ths, so it is serviced regularly, but i dont check stuff like this additive tank.
 
Sounds like the the Eloys (or similar) additive which is a separate bag of fluid that is hidden away. I think the replacement interval is about 75k (depending on car brand + driving habits) so it sounds like you are right on the money!

Hopefully that fixes your issues.
 
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I read dpf filters have average life of 100,000 miles and if faulty or poorly maintained much shorter.
 
The Eloys bottle is tucked well up, next to the diesel tank - it has to be dropped down to refill. Expect to use around 3 litres or so.
The confusing thing is, just like the Adblue systems, the car won't start if the tank is dry! It's therefore vital for the sensor to work.
I guess you have been lucky there!
John :)
 
Right I have the answer !!!

The mot guy has just been to do the diagnostic and the additive tank is totally empty. This is not adblue but another additive which is pushed into the DPF.

So he will add some later this week. He needs to ramp it up and remove the tank.

No warning lights have popped up however, so this is a bit strange.

I generally do the oil every 12k miles or 6ths, so it is serviced regularly, but i dont check stuff like this additive tank.

I thought it would be that. (Eolys).

As far as I'm aware, there's no warning light for it, because there's no internationally agreed symbol. It's peculiar to PSA cars (maybe some Fords). I think they put a message up on the little dot matrix display on the dash - probably something obscure like "FAP reagent" or "FAP fluid". (FAP is French for DPF - Filtre a particule).

The Eolys lasts a very long time - 70-odd, thousand miles from memory). Will you still have the car then? If not, why bother trying to fix the level sensor (if indeed, that's faulty)? Why not just top it up and forget about it for several years?
 
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