A narrow paint scraper is good enough to put putty in place. As said above, it needs a full bed before the glass goes in, then a filler at the front, it was destined to fail without that, same again withe the glazing sealant, it needs to be front and back of the glass to give a full seal.
Failing putty (new shed window) (Ed.)
- Thread starter DIY67
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Forget all that, take it out conmpletely and do a proper job or it'll just leak again. If it breaks then so be it.
Looking at the image in post #12, I am not convinced that the water isn't getting in at the top and running down the inside. If water had got past the putty in the image, it would have run downwards, your drip seems to have worked its way to the right, faster than it has worked its way downward.
I assume that you have a strip of timber at the top. If so, you may want to seal where that timber meets the wall at the top face.
Only if it is single glazing though. Double glazed units in timber frames should only have the sealant on the outer face to allow the inner pane of the unit to expand/contract.
If I have to do it both sides it would mean buying more than 1 tube of sealant for 4 sheets, making the job perhaps over costly for what it is worth. The strange thing is when I had pvc sheets just sitting on the frames with no sealant, the water didn't leak in. The reason I replaced them was because they started to look manky and yellowish as they got older.
Tiger sheds told me people have used this with success. It's also much cheaper than the other recommended here.
pureadhesion.co.uk
Tiger sheds told me people have used this with success. It's also much cheaper than the other recommended here.
Everbuild General Purpose Silicone - White - 310ml
Everbuild General Purpose Silicone - White - 310ml, General Purpose Silicone is a mid modulus silicone sealant that adheres to most smooth and non-porous materials. Contains an anti-fungal compound to prevent mould growth in areas of high humidity. Forms a permanently flexible rubber seal.
pureadhesion.co.uk
If you are redoing it both sides and removing the glass, then I would say use silicone to bed the glass on not puttyIf I have to do it both sides it would mean buying more than 1 tube of sealant for 4 sheets, making the job perhaps over costly for what it is worth. The strange thing is when I had pvc sheets just sitting on the frames with no sealant, the water didn't leak in. The reason I replaced them was because they started to look manky and yellowish as they got older.
Tiger sheds told me people have used this with success. It's also much cheaper than the other recommended here.
Everbuild General Purpose Silicone - White - 310ml
Everbuild General Purpose Silicone - White - 310ml, General Purpose Silicone is a mid modulus silicone sealant that adheres to most smooth and non-porous materials. Contains an anti-fungal compound to prevent mould growth in areas of high humidity. Forms a permanently flexible rubber seal.
general purpose silicone can be used for it, but bear in mind it is not paintable
a putty knife is not a lot of money TBH although any straight sided scraper would do the job
I suspect because you didnt use a putty knife you didnt put loads on and push it into the rebate and then tooled off -that process is what makes a seal
make the putty warm, roll into a sausage and press in or simply force it in using the heel of the hand
Thing is, water finds a way, it's a sucker for being relentless and without doubt the most relentless enemy of the building trade, I concur with silicone but don't be too surprised if after you reseal the glass properly the water finds another way. Really unless you build the windows properly (no disrespect) rather than knocking them up out of a bit of treated softwood they will be prone to leaking for ever more. Or you just accept their foibles and live with it.
Why not recommend use a glazing grade MS polymer instead, which can be painted over?
Sorry, I am not intentionally being comabative. You are one of the regular contributors that I often agree with.
If the OP were to use a "glazing caulk", it would run slightly up under the edge of the glass as it is smoothed. I really don't understand the need to remove the glass and bed it in with the same product.
With regards to my previous post, when fitting double glazed units into timber frames, you do not "silicone" both sides.
If I have to do it both sides it would mean buying more than 1 tube of sealant for 4 sheets, making the job perhaps over costly for what it is worth. The strange thing is when I had pvc sheets just sitting on the frames with no sealant, the water didn't leak in. The reason I replaced them was because they started to look manky and yellowish as they got older.
Tiger sheds told me people have used this with success. It's also much cheaper than the other recommended here.
Everbuild General Purpose Silicone - White - 310ml
Everbuild General Purpose Silicone - White - 310ml, General Purpose Silicone is a mid modulus silicone sealant that adheres to most smooth and non-porous materials. Contains an anti-fungal compound to prevent mould growth in areas of high humidity. Forms a permanently flexible rubber seal.
You baulk at having to pay a fiver(?) for a tube of silicone, but spend 20 minutes posting your questions, which elicited about an hour in response time from the professionals that help out here?
Take the glass or not, you will need 2 to 3 tubes. I would recommend that you put your hand in your pockets and purchase some masking tape. After you remove the putty, run the tape around the glass, ideally you want the edge of tape to line up with the internal frame.
If you go for the cheaper silicone option, drop your "tool" in dilute washing up liquid. When I use the term "tool" I am referring to silicone profiling tools. However, that means that you have to spend £5-10 on the tools set.
If you go for MS ploymers, you will pay about £30, but after paying for the tape, you may be able to profile it without tools.
I apologise for being combative. You have, presumably come here looking for advice from professionals and at the twelfth hour suggested that you will discount the advice offered because you don't want have to spend sufficient money to rectify things.
I do not blame you for wanting to save money, but increasingly, it looks like you are a victim of refusing to spend money to do things properly.
I am going to bow out and I hope that you find a resolution.
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I was actually referring to the more expensive tubes, and merely suggested the £5 (recommended by Tiger Sheds who designed it) as an alternative if I have to buy more than one. I'll dig out the putty (sigh) and go over the top of the glass with the tube putty (expensive one recommended here) as from the outside it will bed under the glass due to it being more fluid than putty.
Fair play. I have however noticed that you haven't addressed my question about the state of any mouldings above the window, Can you please climb up a step ladder and take photos?
I don't want to see you spending money on products that are ineffective.
I have taken these images to show the layout of the shed as best I can with a phone. Please ignore the mess, I am in the middle of a sort out.
As you can see the roof overhang stops rain getting into the vey top of the glass which is why I didn't (under the advise of Tiger) putty the top. The rain was getting in about halfway up the very left pane's edge, which is where you can see my botched attempt to temp fix it by adding putty over the top of already set which turned out a dog's dinner. The glass sits on recessed wooden frames and an outside ledge. I haven't used tacks as the putty and gravity hold the glass in.
I have also enclosed a photo from Tiger's site.
As you can see the roof overhang stops rain getting into the vey top of the glass which is why I didn't (under the advise of Tiger) putty the top. The rain was getting in about halfway up the very left pane's edge, which is where you can see my botched attempt to temp fix it by adding putty over the top of already set which turned out a dog's dinner. The glass sits on recessed wooden frames and an outside ledge. I haven't used tacks as the putty and gravity hold the glass in.
I have also enclosed a photo from Tiger's site.
I'm still not following, are you going to remove the glass, clean off any existing putty from the glass/frames and then reseal the glass in with sealant underneath/alonfg the edges of the glass to completely encapsulate the edge of the glass or are you still planning on just applying sealant to the outside?
I am guessing that the roof is mineral felt and the upper moulding is tacked to the felt. If so some water will leak past that upper moulding.
I cannot say if it is enough to leak behind the upper glass beading.
Thinking aloud, you could tape some kitchen paper to the inner side of the window, very high up, and see if it gets wet when it rains next.
I can understand your hesitancy to remove the beading, risk of snapping etc. A bead of caulk (read: ms polymer) may suffice, but if you cannot get the nozzle in properly, it may be advisable to at a minimum, remove the top one and bed it back using a ms polymer.
My gut feeling is that the water is entering from the top of the glass but I admit that I am guessing.
Perhaps, stand on your step ladder with hose and try to replicate the typical direction of rainfall. Make a note of what happens, Then the following day, use some gaffer tape to cover the top moulding, and see if things are different.
I have to agree that the advice offered by the other members to remove the glass and seal both sides is the best option, but you may be able to sort it without doing so.
I cannot say if it is enough to leak behind the upper glass beading.
Thinking aloud, you could tape some kitchen paper to the inner side of the window, very high up, and see if it gets wet when it rains next.
I can understand your hesitancy to remove the beading, risk of snapping etc. A bead of caulk (read: ms polymer) may suffice, but if you cannot get the nozzle in properly, it may be advisable to at a minimum, remove the top one and bed it back using a ms polymer.
My gut feeling is that the water is entering from the top of the glass but I admit that I am guessing.
Perhaps, stand on your step ladder with hose and try to replicate the typical direction of rainfall. Make a note of what happens, Then the following day, use some gaffer tape to cover the top moulding, and see if things are different.
I have to agree that the advice offered by the other members to remove the glass and seal both sides is the best option, but you may be able to sort it without doing so.