FIAT nightmare.

In my early motoring days, some of the cars I could afford, had manually adjusted, rod operated rear brakes. Many of the instructions for adjusting brakes, suggested there should be no drag when rotating the wheel, so that's what I used to always aim for, but I always ended up with lots of pedal movement.

I would do most of my car and bike work, in my dad's garage, alone, which was located around a mile from where we lived. Just round the corner from the garage, was a repair garage, and one day, so frustrated by the long pedal movement, I took the car round to the owner to seek advice. He told me I was adjusting them the wrong way....

I should have adjust them up tight, so the wheels were locked, stamp on the pedal to snug up the shoes, then back it off just enough to free the wheel, shoes should still rub a bit.

My present car, has discs all round, but uses shoes for the handbrake, but I do like a perfect handbrake. I have always kept that advice in mind since then, but notice many with the same car model, think you adjust them, so there is no rub, and end up with a near useless handbrake, until I show them how to set it up.
Ford V8 Pilot.
Hyd. front brakes & rods on the rears .. must have been fun adjusting them.

My old 5 series E39 has the most useless handbrake I've ever experienced, will barely hold the car on the level when in Drive, apparently the model is notorious for it.
Having new rear discs (HB drums on the back) & HB shoes fitted by an experienced BM mechanic soon .. hopefully I will gain a useable handbrake after four years of ownership, though surprisingly it does pass the MOT each year.
 
Having new rear discs (HB drums on the back) & HB shoes fitted by an experienced BM mechanic soon .. hopefully I will gain a useable handbrake after four years of ownership, though surprisingly it does pass the MOT each year.

It sounds similar/same has my models issues....

Lack of use of HB, causes the drum to rust, the rust acts just like a lubricant, so the driver heaves even harder on the lever, causing the compensator to 'stretch'. The compensator uses something like a 6" nail, formed into a U, the extreme stress, causes the U fold of the 'nail' to gradually move, causing lots of play, more than can be accommodated by adjustment.

Simple fix, is to reform the compensator, and weld the open end of the U together to make it more robust. The secret of avoiding the rusty drum, is to apply the handbrake, just as the car is coming to a stop, and do it regularly - when you are coming to a gentle stop at the traffic lights, the last couple of yards.

Mine, will hold on any hill at two clicks, will lock the rear wheels on three,
 
It sounds similar/same has my models issues....

Lack of use of HB, causes the drum to rust, the rust acts just like a lubricant, so the driver heaves even harder on the lever, causing the compensator to 'stretch'. The compensator uses something like a 6" nail, formed into a U, the extreme stress, causes the U fold of the 'nail' to gradually move, causing lots of play, more than can be accommodated by adjustment.

Simple fix, is to reform the compensator, and weld the open end of the U together to make it more robust. The secret of avoiding the rusty drum, is to apply the handbrake, just as the car is coming to a stop, and do it regularly - when you are coming to a gentle stop at the traffic lights, the last couple of yards.

Mine, will hold on any hill at two clicks, will lock the rear wheels on three,
Thanks for that Harry, I'll mention the compensator reform to the mechanic.
The 2006 Mondeo we had for 9 years must have had a similar HB system (having all round discs as well) & that car was as good as yours. Interestingly our driving style was exactly the same back then with me rarely using the HB when parking, unless on a slope.

It pains me to say it, but when it comes to HB's .. Ford 1 BMW 0 ;)
 
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I don't think the mondeo uses handbrake shoes but uses the rear pads for footbrake and handbrake.
 
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The 2006 Mondeo we had for 9 years must have had a similar HB system (having all round discs as well) & that car was as good as yours. Interestingly our driving style was exactly the same back then with me rarely using the HB when parking, unless on a slope.

As I tried to explain, it's the applying whilst still on the move, which helps keep the handbrake effective. It keeps the drum free of rust.
 
As I tried to explain, it's the applying whilst still on the move, which helps keep the handbrake effective. It keeps the drum free of rust.
I get that Harry, I was just comparing the two models & wondering why the Ford was so good whereas the BM is rubbish, this despite my driving technique being the same with both cars, neither HB benefiting from your 'low speed application' method.

Maybe, as has been suggested, the answer is down to the employment of separate shoes vs the disc pads?
 
My bmw handbrake has to be adjusted via a small hole once one of the wheel bolts is removed. Takes patience and time, the recommended setting is 7 to 8 clicks of the hand brake. Twice as much as any other car I have owned.
 
My bmw handbrake has to be adjusted via a small hole once one of the wheel bolts is removed. Takes patience and time, the recommended setting is 7 to 8 clicks of the hand brake. Twice as much as any other car I have owned.
If I select 2 on the steptronic the HB on 7 clicks will just hold with the car in gear on the flat, but not in D when first gear is engaged.
It will hold when parking on a slight hill, but I wouldn't trust it without engaging Park.
 
I adjust mine to about 4 which holds it fine without being in Park.
 
I adjust mine to about 4 which holds it fine without being in Park.
Thanks for the input. I don't mess with cars these days so I'll live in hope that the fitment of new rear discs, handbrake shoes & adjustment will yield results :unsure:
 
It sounds similar/same has my models issues....

Lack of use of HB, causes the drum to rust, the rust acts just like a lubricant, so the driver heaves even harder on the lever, causing the compensator to 'stretch'. The compensator uses something like a 6" nail, formed into a U, the extreme stress, causes the U fold of the 'nail' to gradually move, causing lots of play, more than can be accommodated by adjustment.

Simple fix, is to reform the compensator, and weld the open end of the U together to make it more robust. The secret of avoiding the rusty drum, is to apply the handbrake, just as the car is coming to a stop, and do it regularly - when you are coming to a gentle stop at the traffic lights, the last couple of yards.

Mine, will hold on any hill at two clicks, will lock the rear wheels on three,
When my trailer has been laid-up for a while, the rust on the drums definitely doesn't act as a lubricant! Usually the first few brake applications are pretty violent. I feel like the car is a few inches longer after the first brake application!
 
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