First time fitting kitchen - Any tips advise would help

JobAndKnock said:
Personally I prefer to use "ordinary" screws (Iby that I mean good quality screws such as Spax, Reisser or Hospa). I clamp the carcasses together the screw together where the screws won't be seen, e.g. beneath hinge plates, up at the top corners of the cabinet (in the dark corners), beneath drawer runners, behind shelves, etc. With white cabinets, and a limited range of colours, you can get self-adhesive coloured melamine circles to disguise 8the rare screw head you leave visible. Hospa screws are particularly good at not screwing up the chipboard, but then they are purpose designed for MFC (melamine faced chipboard - what the majority of kitchen cabinets are made from). A lot of other guys I know prefer this approach, too. If you brackwtvthe backs if the cabinets to the wall it is that, combined with the weight of the cab and contents which keep it all in place
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What size you use of these Hospa screw? Do you have to countersunk or they automatically goes in without chipping?
 
Hospa screws generally drive quite cleanly without piloting. To join carcasses you'd need something like 3.5 x 30 or 4.0 x 30mm. Position them where they cannot be seen - two beneath the hinge cruciform plates, for example, maybe one at the rear of the carcase near the top (where you'd need to be 3ft high or double jointed to ever see it), etc. Then it doesn't matter if you get a little bit of chipping. Drive them fully flush, but don't leave them proud, or drive them too far under the surface, either. You can buy them of eBay these days. If you can't get them a high grade BZP screw such as Spax or Reisser is the next choice
'
 
JobAndKnock said:
Hospa screws generally drive quite cleanly without piloting. To join carcasses you'd need something like 3.5 x 30 or 4.0 x 30mm. Position them where they cannot be seen - two beneath the hinge cruciform plates, for example, maybe one at the rear of the carcase near the top (where you'd need to be 3ft high or double jointed to ever see it), etc. Then it doesn't matter if you get a little bit of chipping. Drive them fully flush, but don't leave them proud, or drive them too far under the surface, either. You can buy them of eBay these days. If you can't get them a high grade BZP screw such as Spax or Reisser is the next choice
'
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You mean this ones?

upload_2021-7-3_13-55-59.png
 
My 2 pennies:
Before doing anything, make 100% sure that all vermin possible access points are properly sealed.
All hidden pipework has no unnecessary joints and it's leak free.
If using copper pipes, sleeve them with cheap insulating tubes, the foam ones, this will minimise sweating.
If tiling the floor, at extra cost tile the whole room, trust me you won't regret it.
If you have stud walls, find the studs before starting the work, mark them, then make good any holes.
Paint the ceiling when the room is empty.
Plan number and position of sockets with your wife aka the boss, this will prevent moaning in future.
Going back to joining cabinets, I personally use reisser screws behind the hinges and top and bottom at the back.
No need for pilot hole.
An impact driver makes sure the screws pull the clamped cabinets tight together.
Nobody will ever look at the 2 rear screws, unless they keep the cabinets empty and go in there with an headlamp.
Check, double check and triple check the cabinets level before securing them to the wall and to each other.
 
JohnD said:
Cabinet hanging rail is a great improvement on your 4x2. It is used for wall cabinets but you can use it to hold base cabs to the wall if you want.

It is predrilled with numerous holes, so once you have located the studs (see my "special tool") you can fit it straight and level, and adjustable cabinet hangers hook easily onto it. It is very strong.

Special tool:
https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/...-for-wall-hung-cupboards.571221/#post-4966968
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What plug size would you use on single brickwork partition wall?
 
I almost invariably use Plasplugs Brown 7x40mm, and buy them by the truckload

I admit that in many cases this is overkill, but it saves me the trouble of keeping handfuls of different ones.

Very rarely I need a longer or wider one for a particular reason.

I don't do it for a living.

J&K is an expert.
 
Yes.
Then of course i adapt the lenght of screws accordingly to what I'm sticking on the wall.
Ideally the screw should protrude 10mm from the end of the plug.
So your 50mm is perfect for the wall brackets which are only 2mm.
 
Normally at least one side will butt up to a run of upper cabinets whilst a full length visible end often has a decor panel attached. Both of those can be used to hide angle plates, even if they need to be recessed onto grooves on the sides of the unit to make it all fit
 
JobAndKnock said:
Normally at least one side will butt up to a run of upper cabinets whilst a full length visible end often has a decor panel attached. Both of those can be used to hide angle plates, even if they need to be recessed onto grooves on the sides of the unit to make it all fit
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Got 02 tall unit starting from corner and one side will then have decor panel before split unit carry on. In a simple way what's easy system to fix them to wall?
 
One way: Fix through the side of the unit and packers into the.wall. Brackets, top and bottom, fixed to other side of unit and to back wall. Grooves about 4mm deep in back of decor panel to get over the thickness of the angle bracket and screw heads
 
JobAndKnock said:
One way: Fix through the side of the unit and packers into the.wall. Brackets, top and bottom, fixed to other side of unit and to back wall. Grooves about 4mm deep in back of decor panel to get over the thickness of the angle bracket and screw heads
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Thanks
 
The main thing is always to keep the fixings hidden, or failing that as discrete as possible
 
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