Fitting 100A isolation switch between meter and consumer unit

Joyrider

Joyrider

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Hello all
Considering having a the smart meter installed and thinking if possible to have a isolation switch fitted incase I get a EV charger in the future.

I appreciate this is not a DIY task and only DNO or supplier can touch that fuse inside cutout...and I am not crazy enough to touch it either. I will ask the smart meter installer if they can fit the switch if I supply it and throw in some drinks fund.

Its a old 1900 built house with both gas and electric meter under the stairs and the pipe you see from the bottom left corner is the mains water pipe and condensation does drip...I am assuming reason the consumer unit if fitted about the pipe for this reason.

With this water pipe nearby, is it possible to replace the black Henley block with a isolation switch or keep the block where it is and add a isolation switch. If so where is best location to fit the switch :)

Any feedback will be appreciated :)
 

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I had it fitted before the smart meter, so no one would know if the electrician did draw the fuse, once smart meter fitted, they will know if the fuse is drawn, could get one fitted and get supply into the isolator they after smart meter electrician can connect to isolator.

You are hoping the installer of smart meter will say yes, but if he says no, you're stumped.
 
Appreciate your reply. I don't really want to break the seal incase it opens a can of worms with the meter installer.

You are correct I am hoping the installer will fit. I hear they normally do assisst if you donate to their evening drink pot ;) But knowing my luck may get a installer thats in a bad mood.

If I can get an idea where best to fit the switch, then I will screw the switch to the wall ready for the cables to be screwed in. Is there any rules if the switch needs to be fitted on wall horizantal or vertical.
Dose the cables need to be in a loop or can they feed in straight line. Just trying to figure out the best spot without the need to replace my CU tails.
 
Most suppliers will fit one for a small charge. Ask the company you pay for your electricity how much to do this
 
Joyrider said:
I don't really want to break the seal incase it opens a can of worms with the meter installer.
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Meter installer won’t give a flying fig about that as they'll be fitting a new seal at the end of the job. I’d say do what you want before he/she arrives.
 
Ragnar_AT said:
I‘d replace the Henley blocks with the isolator.
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It's handy having a Henley block though, if you want to add an extra consumer unit or switch fuse or something - may come in handy for the mentioned car charger.
 
sparkwright said:
It's handy having a Henley block though, if you want to add an extra consumer unit or switch fuse or something - may come in handy for the mentioned car charger.
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You could fit a new one if you ever need it, with the isolator in place that's easy to do. In the meantime you've got fewer connections that could cause trouble.
 
Ragnar_AT said:
You could fit a new one if you ever need it, with the isolator in place that's easy to do. In the meantime you've got fewer connections that could cause trouble.
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Thats my plan. Once I have the isolation switch after meter, it gives me the option to safely add a Henley block if needed.
 
Joyrider said:
Many thanks for this layout. Do the tails from the CU need to enter the switch from the bottom to create a drip or straight connection like your picture is fine.
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In reality the switch will be mounted and the existing tails will likely be terminated without shortening so could be more like this
1719961009266.png
 
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