Fitting 100A isolation switch between meter and consumer unit

Nothing happens when you pull out the cutout fuse. It's like any other fuse you'd pull out.

It's all a myth and bullshit created by the electrical industry to prevent people from tampering and removing the meters.

www.diynot.com

Is the electrical industry built on a house of cards?

On this forum and online, I'd always heard that one should never pull the fuse from the cutout for reasons ranging from 1. The DNO/ electrical company will know and they will have you arrested for tampering with their equipment :mrgreen: 2. You need secret specialist equipment to pull the fuse...
www.diynot.com www.diynot.com

It's all smoke and mirrors
 
Some cutouts have ceramic fuse holders that have deteriorated over the years, Sometimes the holder has broken and when the fuse is pulled the two ( or more ) parts fall away leaving the terminals unsupported.. If the Live terminal touches the metal case of the cutout then an arc can be created, the network fuse feeding that arc is at least 200 Amp and possible 400 or more Amps.

I have seen the fire damage when about 2 feet of lead sheathed supply cable was burnt/melted by that arc before the Network fuse finally opened and the arcing ended.
 
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Taylortwocities said:
I guess (hope) that your electric meter etc are not in an area where water can be expected! No need to do thios. Straight cables are fine, as is entry from top or bottom. However, all cables need to be supported (eg cleated, etc) to the wall. Not left waving in the breeze, like yours are!
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Very old house and unforetunately the main waterpipe from street comes up from the bottom left. The pipe is about 15cm away from the wall so not directly about the Henley block. Have noticed in the winter there is condensation on the pipe and it drips to the floor.

Agree the cables could do with a few clips screwed to the wall...I will add some clips once the meter has been installed.
 
Mr Sparkle said:
Nothing happens when you pull out the cutout fuse. It's like any other fuse you'd pull out.

It's all a myth and bullshit created by the electrical industry to prevent people from tampering and removing the meters.

www.diynot.com

Is the electrical industry built on a house of cards?

On this forum and online, I'd always heard that one should never pull the fuse from the cutout for reasons ranging from 1. The DNO/ electrical company will know and they will have you arrested for tampering with their equipment :mrgreen: 2. You need secret specialist equipment to pull the fuse...
www.diynot.com www.diynot.com

It's all smoke and mirrors
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I woud have pulled the fuse if it was a modern cutout like those white blocks. But my house was built in 1900. I am worried something may break. I don't mind some low risk DIY. I did upgrade the shower RCD from 32A to 50A myself and could fit the isolation switch if the power was off.
 
When I had my smart meter installed, the fitter installed an isolator switch for free.
I had to request it when he arrived - he said he only fits them if asked but doesn't charge.
 
Joyrider said:
The red and black cables are smaller 16mm unlike my 25mm. I could be wrong but the installer will need to upgrade his wires.
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Or not.

The suppliers and DNO have different rules and their cables can magically carry more current than yours (are allowed to).
 
Alan 483256 said:
When I had my smart meter installed, the fitter installed an isolator switch for free.
I had to request it when he arrived - he said he only fits them if asked but doesn't charge.
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May i ask when this was fitted please and what meter company visited your home :)
 
Taylortwocities said:
Wasn’t it an MCB you changed? And I hope that you installed MUCH thicker cable to cater for the potential 50amp current flow.
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Appogies...its called MCB. Schoolboy error on my side.

Our electric shower internal fuse blew and was under 2 years warranty so when engineer came to repair the shower he pointed out the shower wire was fine for a lower power shower, but not the 10.5KW that was fitted by the plumber.
Was advised to upgrade to 50Aamp breaker and 10mm cable or won't honour any future repairs. It was only 2m of cable but those cables were painfull to install :mad:
 

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Alan 483256 said:
Nov 23, Octopus / South East England.
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Thanks. My energy supplier use SMS. I spoke to SMS customer support as a general chat as asked if they do fit. They said they do fit them if requested. When I ask about cost, they said all cost is passed to energy supplier as no payment is taken from customer.
So I need to ask my energy supplier if there is a cost. Ideally there should be no cost and fitted as standard as its the only way to safely isolate the power for electrician to carry out any work at the property
 
Don't forget to shut your eyes when you pull that main fuse!

And wear those marigolds from under the kitchen sink when you plug it back in.
 
Joyrider said:
its the only way to safely isolate the power for electrician to carry out any work at the property
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Not any work - just the one specific task of replacing a consumer unit, which for most properties is something done once every few decades.

Any other electrical work involves switching off using the isolator in the consumer unit.
 
flameport said:
Not any work - just the one specific task of replacing a consumer unit, which for most properties is something done once every few decades.

Any other electrical work involves switching off using the isolator in the consumer unit.
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Adding a car charging circuit.
 
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