Never done that before but you won’t damage anything if you do. If you feel happier doing that, go ahead.
Ford Ka MK1 Coolent flush - query and questions
- Thread starter dishman
- Start date
Yeh, it's just a bit frustrating, as I am at most getting only 1.5-2l out of a drain each time I flush, out of 5.3l of capacity.
You’re over thinking it. Take the thermostat out, undo as many coolant pipes as you can. Flush them with a hose pipe every which way until they are running clear. Whatever is left in the system will be just water. Put the thermostat back in. Put the pipes back on. Add your 2.5 litres of anti freeze, run the engine until the cooling fan has come on a few times and the heater can blow hot air. Switch off, let it cool down and top up the coolant if required and that’s it. Job done. Forget about it.
You will probably never get it to run clear. Just refill with the correct coolant and move on.
Appreciate all the advice. I probably am overthinking it.
It's just a mix of wanting to do a really proper job, so I don't have to do it again for a long time, and learning as I go and not wanting to mess up.
I did make a bit of extra work for myself. The flush left the system running pretty much clear. But, I decided to run a bit of cleaner in it just to see, and with only using half their suggested dilution, I did another run and it came out totally brown again.
It was actually shocking how effective it was. But whether it was worth it or not, I have no idea.
I have now installed the new heater control valve, and that seems to be working perfectly. So the original issue is fixed.
Interestingly, the A/C seems to be working now. Or rather fixing the valve has made it actually effective. Wasn't expecting the A/C to work in a 16 year old KA.
I then decided to do the thermostat, even though the old one was working. I was in two minds as to whether it was worth it, or whether I'd be opening a can of worms.
The retaining screws for the thermostat cap are horrible little things. They are metal screws (that are more like wood screws) and screw into a plastic thread/housing. Feels nice and secure but I was very paranoid about cross threading the plastic.
But, no leaks. Thermostat works.
After doing all this I have notice the valve cover is weeping. So I think that is next on the list.
It looks pretty simple on this, but I'm sure that will be my next post.
It's just a mix of wanting to do a really proper job, so I don't have to do it again for a long time, and learning as I go and not wanting to mess up.
I did make a bit of extra work for myself. The flush left the system running pretty much clear. But, I decided to run a bit of cleaner in it just to see, and with only using half their suggested dilution, I did another run and it came out totally brown again.
It was actually shocking how effective it was. But whether it was worth it or not, I have no idea.
I have now installed the new heater control valve, and that seems to be working perfectly. So the original issue is fixed.
Interestingly, the A/C seems to be working now. Or rather fixing the valve has made it actually effective. Wasn't expecting the A/C to work in a 16 year old KA.
I then decided to do the thermostat, even though the old one was working. I was in two minds as to whether it was worth it, or whether I'd be opening a can of worms.
The retaining screws for the thermostat cap are horrible little things. They are metal screws (that are more like wood screws) and screw into a plastic thread/housing. Feels nice and secure but I was very paranoid about cross threading the plastic.
But, no leaks. Thermostat works.
After doing all this I have notice the valve cover is weeping. So I think that is next on the list.
It looks pretty simple on this, but I'm sure that will be my next post.
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On the subject of the valve cover gasket.
Is it a part that I should ideally go genuine ford. Or are gaskets so generic it's a safe part to get a third party type.
I can't find any ford OEM ones online. But rang a local dealer and they want £48
Whereas something like this is £6
Is it a part that I should ideally go genuine ford. Or are gaskets so generic it's a safe part to get a third party type.
I can't find any ford OEM ones online. But rang a local dealer and they want £48
Whereas something like this is £6
ROCKER CAM COVER GASKET FITS KA FIESTA STREETKA SPORTKA 1.3 1.6 8V 2002 on | eBay
KA FIESTA STREETKA SPORTKA 1.3 1.6 8V 02 on ROCKER GASKET <br>.
www.ebay.co.uk
The pattern part should be just fine......Ford will just buy them in from an outside manufacturer anyway.
John
John
Familiarising myself with the process. It seems simple enough.
This video seems to suggest that it is beneficial to run a small bead of valve putty in the gasket groove before fitting the rubber gasket in.
A few other videos suggest this for corners or any areas with odd joins.
Should i follow the advice of the video.
Or just put the gasket in as is.
This video seems to suggest that it is beneficial to run a small bead of valve putty in the gasket groove before fitting the rubber gasket in.
A few other videos suggest this for corners or any areas with odd joins.
Should i follow the advice of the video.
Or just put the gasket in as is.
This. ^
Not necessary for the sealing qualities but it can help stop the gasket dropping off whilst you pop the cover back into place.......especially on DOHC engines.
John
John
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Try the gasket in the cover. If it stays in place nothing needed
If it keeps dropping out before you can get it onto the head then it can be helpful
If it keeps dropping out before you can get it onto the head then it can be helpful
While I wait on the gasket to arrive. Thought I would post these pictures of how bad the coolant system was before I flushed it. Specifically the header tank.
Before
You can see how much limescale and debris seems to have built up over the years.
My best guess is that this car may not have had new coolant since 2012, and potentially only topped up with tap water since. You can see what looks like a solid amount of limescale inside that header tank, to the point where it is opaque when held up to the sun.
After:
I used the method of putting some gravel in and shaking it to get all the solid crap out. It took a while, but I think worth it.
After all that, I'm sure the car is much better at cooling. It seems to take longer before the fan comes on when coming up to temperature. Which seems to suggest the radiator is being more efficient. The fan also seems to use half speed more often. But I did not take any measurements so it could be psychosomatic.
Before
You can see how much limescale and debris seems to have built up over the years.
My best guess is that this car may not have had new coolant since 2012, and potentially only topped up with tap water since. You can see what looks like a solid amount of limescale inside that header tank, to the point where it is opaque when held up to the sun.
After:
I used the method of putting some gravel in and shaking it to get all the solid crap out. It took a while, but I think worth it.
After all that, I'm sure the car is much better at cooling. It seems to take longer before the fan comes on when coming up to temperature. Which seems to suggest the radiator is being more efficient. The fan also seems to use half speed more often. But I did not take any measurements so it could be psychosomatic.
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Ye gods, the cooling system should never get as bad as that.....I’d guess there hasn’t been any antifreeze in there for years!
John
John
Now you see why I was being slightly pedantic about flushing it to death.
I’ll admit I thought you were overdoing things.....you certainly weren’t!
John
John