Fused spur - distance to draining board

[danechip]

I love demonstrating the dangers of them to the people who insist on their presence.

First I poke my neon/led into the L&N holes which of course doesn't get anywhere near the live parts, then I put the plug in but upside down and make sure it's right in and do the same test with the screwdriver which lights up. Next I pull the cover out with a well practiced upward jerk only to find the earth pin stays in the hole where it rips off the cover.

Oops I say... then explain it's what the children do with them and finish it off with another demo with screwdriver

LOL, Behave x

 

[winston1]

to$$er...

No need for insults.
What I said was true.

 

[winston1]

Who the phuck is this ar$ehole. BAS back from the dead?

I don't think BAS made rude insults like that. You can put BS3036 on ignore though.

 

[winston1]

It's for a single socket behind the built-in fridge (to the right). I guess the same applies since the fridge also has a plug. Would you have fitted a non-fused double-pole switch instead?

No, I wouldn't fit anything as a fridge has its own switch, usually by turning the thermostat fully anticlockwise.

 

[sparkwright]

No, I wouldn't fit anything as a fridge has its own switch, usually by turning the thermostat fully anticlockwise.

Sounds like a poor design to me, it would be better to be able to fully isolate the appliance, without the need of pulling it out to remove the plug.

Would also make fault finding on the installation awkward too.

 

[danechip]

sparkright, you can also isolate in the CU by circuit or the main power..

 

[sparkwright]

sparkright, you can also isolate in the CU by circuit or the main power..

Yes, but that isolates everything else too - poor design.

Not very helpful for fault finding on the fixed wiring.

 

[SUNRAY]

No, I wouldn't fit anything as a fridge has its own switch, usually by turning the thermostat fully anticlockwise.

to$$er...

The whole point about isolation is being able to isolate the appliance.
1. Many, if not most, fridge thermostats don't have an 'off' position.
2. Have you bothered checking the internal light functionality when the thermostat is set to ninimum?
3. Have you any idea at all what components exist in a moderately modern fridge?

 

[DaveFix]

It's a rather heavy full height fridge which sits raised above the floor inside the cupboard, screwed in position top and bottom, and screwed to the integrated door mechanisms in three places. If there was a fault tripping the RCD I'd much rather it could be isolated at the wall.

 

[SUNRAY]

It's a rather heavy full height fridge which sits raised above the floor inside the cupboard, screwed in position top and bottom, and screwed to the integrated door mechanisms in three places. If there was a fault tripping the RCD I'd much rather it could be isolated at the wall.

Top marks for your common sense, unlike some. I expect to be able to isolate the fridge easily too, in fact all appliances indivually.

 

[SUNRAY]

sparkright, you can also isolate in the CU by circuit or the main power..

Sounds like a poor design to me, ...

 

[winston1]

Top marks for your common sense, unlike some. I expect to be able to isolate the fridge easily too, in fact all appliances indivually.

Do you have double pole isolators for each of your ceiling and wall lights. If you want to be able to isolate a fridge or anything else easily don't put the plug and socket behind it. Put it to one side. Pulling a plug is a far better isolator than a switch that could weld up one of its poles.

 

[sparkwright]

Yes, but when the op mentioned there was a socket behind the fridge, you stated you wouldn't be fitting an isolator to control said socket - implying there was no need for that socket to be accessible.

Now you are stating the socket could be accessible to one side (in a kitchen cupboard perhaps?) - something no one here would have been against.

An accessible isolator controlling the appliance, or an accessible socket for the appliance - both suitable ways of isolating the appliance without a load of hassle.

 

[RandomGrinch]

I apologise to the OP, as occasionally happens, these threads can go off at a tangent!

. If you want to be able to isolate a fridge or anything else easily don't put the plug and socket behind it. Put it to one side. Pulling a plug is a far better isolator than a switch that could weld up one of its poles.

Agreed, pulling a plug is a pretty good isolator!
Although many appliances are mounted under worktops and surrounded by cabinets. Pulling a plug is not always easy and as you say, it could be considered poor design.

However, if (heaven forbid), another wax motor was burning the front off of a tumble drier; I would not be reaching for a switch on the front panel and I would not be pulling the appliance from under a worktop to remove the plug.
If I had clarity of thought, I may go to the consumer unit.
Otherwise, in that situation, I would be extremely grateful to have an accessible switched FCU, or grid switch!

 

[SUNRAY]

Do you have double pole isolators for each of your ceiling and wall lights.

No of course not But the generally accepted risks of a single component appliance are minute in comparison with most large appliances with powerful components.

If you want to be able to isolate a fridge or anything else easily don't put the plug and socket behind it. Put it to one side. Pulling a plug is a far better isolator than a switch that could weld up one of its poles.

And an extremely sensible comment follows the stupid question. However you mentioned earlier you wouldn't have any isolation point at the appliance and you have frequently mentioned you would use the consumer unit for the purpose. I really struggle to understand where you really are with your ideas as you contradict yourself on a very regular basis